Language, Culture & History

History of Gambia

Before the arrival of the Europeans in the 15th century, the nation’s history was preserved in oral traditions. Ancient stone circles, known as the Wassu stone circles, are evidence of an early population; however, not much is known of it.

According to thecommonwealth.org, the area now known as The Gambia was part of the Ghana Empire ruled by the Serahuli between the 5th and 8th centuries. It later became part of the Mali Empire under the Susu and Mandinka in the 13th century, which declined by the 16th century.

In the 15th century, Europeans started to explore the river and coast area – the River Gambia soon became a busy trading zone for gold and slaves. During the colonial period, several European powers contested ownership of the river with Britain eventually prevailing, and The Gambia became a British Protectorate in the early 1820s, surrounded by French-ruled Senegal.

The drive for Gambian independence gained momentum after World War 2 and in 1961 the first universal franchise election was held, with Dawda Jawara winning. The Gambia became the last of Britain’s West African colonies to attain full independence, mainly because it was so small and poor that doubts surfaced about its economic viability. A merger with Senegal was suggested but rejected when the issue of how to share power could not be resolved. Eventually, in 1965 The Gambia achieved independence and Jawara became the country’s first Prime Minister before assuming the role of President when the country became a republic in 1970 as a member of the Commonwealth.

A period of hope and relative prosperity matched by an era of political stability followed and with elections conducted every five years, The Gambia is one of the oldest multi­party democracies in Africa. However, dissatisfaction within the military and a failed coup in 1981 led to the establishment of the Senegambia Confederation in 1982, which aimed to unify the political, economic and defence structure of the two countries. The confederation lasted until 1989 when the project was aborted.

Nonetheless, close relations have remained between the two since the divorce. A bloodless coup in 1994 caught everyone by surprise but was welcomed by the majority of the population and Yahya Jammeh, a military man, assumed control and promptly banned political activity. In response, Western governments withdrew support for the country and the tourist industry collapsed, only recovering when Jammeh called elections in 1996, which he won.

Since the turn of the century, The Gambia has had a period of relatively high economic growth backed by a tourist boom and apparent stability. The country retains strong connections with Britain and is one of the few parts of West Africa where English, rather than French, is the official language. Under the surface, however, Jammeh became increasingly repressive and was involved in human rights violations. His time in office saw the oppression of LGBTQ+ people, anti-government journalists and opposition parties.

In December 2016, Adama Barrow won the democratic election; however, Jammeh refused to concede and, after being threatened by the African Union, fled to Equatorial Guinea in January 2017. In 2018, The Gambia officially rejoined the Commonwealth after the nation announced its exit in 2013.

Did you know?

• Contemporary Gambian music fuses Western sounds with Sabar, the traditional drumming and dancing of the Wolof and Serer peoples.
• The River Gambia is navigable deep into the continent, which made it a frequently-used site for the slave trade. Once slave trading was declared illegal in the 19th century the river became a strategic factor in its end.
• The Gambia is the smallest country on mainland Africa.

Gambia Culture

Religion in Gambia

Over 90% Muslim, with the remainder holding either Christian or animist beliefs.

Social Conventions in Gambia

Handshaking is a common form of greeting; Salaam aleikum (Peace be upon you) is the traditional greeting. Naka nga def (Wolof for: How are you?) is widely used on the coast; Kori tanante (Mandinka for: How are you?) is widely used inland. Gambians are extremely friendly and welcoming, and, in general, visitors should not be afraid to accept their hospitality.

You should exercise common sense in their dealings with the persistent would-be guides, known locally as bumsters, who operate in some tourist areas. Many Gambians are Muslim, and their religious customs and beliefs should be respected by guests; however, most understand western customs and the English language. Visitors should remember that the right hand, not the left, must be used for the giving or receiving of food or objects.

Casual wear is suitable, although beachwear should only be worn on the beach or at the poolside. Only the most exclusive dining rooms encourage guests to dress up for dinner. Traditional culture in music, dancing and craftsmanship flourishes in the many villages in up-country Gambia. Travellers are advised not to photograph Banjul airport or military bases, and to ask the permission of any locals if wishing to photograph them and their village.

Language in Gambia

The official language is English. The most widely spoken local languages are Fula, Jola, Mandinka, Pulaar, Soninke, Serer-Sine and Wolof.

Geography & weather

Weather and climate

Best time to visit

The Gambia lies in a region that arguably has the most agreeable climate in West Africa; the weather is subtropical, with distinct dry and rainy seasons. Temperatures highs tend to average 29°C (84°F) – 34°C (93°F).

From mid-November to early June, coastal areas are usually dry, while the rainy season lasts from mid to late June to October. Inland, the cool season is shorter, and daytime temperatures are very high between March and June. Sunny periods occur on most days, even during the rainy season, when showers can be short and spectacular. Most charter flights run from November to May, coinciding with the time of year when the temperature is pleasant and humidity is low.

November is The Gambia’s least rainy month, offering a less humid and sunny holiday. Christmas and Easter are the two busiest travel periods, while the shoulder seasons represent the best times to arrive if you wish to escape the crowds. June to August, although rainy, offer a great alternative and lush green vegetation. Bird watchers will revel in this period, as colourful species in their breeding plumage emerge.

Required clothing

Lightweight or tropical for most of the year, with rainwear for the rainy season.

Geography

The Gambia, situated on West Africa’s Atlantic coast, is a thin ribbon of land, at no point wider than 50km (30 miles), running east-west on both banks of the River Gambia. In the east, where the river dwindles, the country is barely 15km (9 miles) wide. The smallest and westernmost mainland African nation, The Gambia is essentially an enclave of Senegal with whom it shares 740km (460 miles) of land border. To the west though, The Gambia is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean and has 80km (50 miles) of coastline.

The country is predominantly a low plateau, which decreases in height as it nears the Atlantic coast. The plateau is bisected by the river and is broken in a few places by low flat-topped hills and by the river’s tributaries. The landscape is essentially flat, with the highest point just 53m (174ft) above sea level. In the west of the country, near the coast, the riverbanks are backed mainly by mangrove swamps, while in the inland area, which extends from central Gambia to the eastern border, the river is lined by steep, red ironstone banks covered with tropical forest.

Away from the river, find wooded, park-like savannah, with large areas carpeted by a variety of trees such as baobab, silk-cotton, mahogany and oil palm. On the coast, the river meets the Atlantic with impressive sand cliffs and 50km (31 miles) of beaches, the best of which are broad, palm-fringed and strewn with shells.

Business Opportunities

Doing Business in Gambia

For locals, business attire is often a mix of traditional clothes and western business outfits. Businessmen wear jackets and ties for business meetings. Women should ensure clothing covers the shoulders and reaches down to the knees.

A personal approach is important in Gambian business circles. It is advisable to take business cards; their use is appreciated though not universal. Offer business cards with your right hand; using the left hand is seen as an insult as it is used for toilet purposes and other unhygienic tasks. Gift exchanges are also common.

Between men, it’s common to greet each other with a handshake using the right hand; this is the same between women. Between men and women, verbal greetings are expected.

Office Hours

Mon-Thu 0800-1600, Fri 0800-1230.

Economy

The economy of The Gambia is basically agricultural, with rough wood accounting for 51% of total exports. Brazil nuts, coconuts and cashews account for 29%. Tourism is a significant generator of foreign exchange. Forestry and fishing are also important and banking is a new growth area. Rice is one of the main staples; some is homegrown, but most is imported. There are no viable mineral deposits. The small but fast-growing industrial sector is dominated by agro-industrial activities.

Government economic strategy aims both to stimulate agricultural productivity and position The Gambia as a regional hub for trade, finance and telecommunications.

Over the last decade, substantial infrastructural progress has been made (such as the opening of the Senegambia Bridge in January 2019) although wide-reaching investment in roads, public transport and power generation has been sporadic.

Overall, the economy has performed fairly well, achieving annual growth since 2000, with an estimated 6.6% growth in GDP in 2018. However, despite having benefitted from recent IMF, World Bank and African Development Bank debt relief initiatives, The Gambia remains dependent on international aid.

GDP

US$1.624 billion (2018).

Main exports

Rough wood, tropical fruits, non-fillet frozen fish, scrap iron and coconuts, Brazil nuts and cashews.

Main imports

Cotton, raw sugar, food, fuel, machinery and transport equipment.

Main trading partners

India, China, UK, South Korea and Senegal.

Keeping in Touch in Gambia

Telephone

There are telecentres in the major towns but these are under threat from mobile phones. The connection is generally good in main urban centres.

Mobile Phone

Roaming agreements exist with most international mobile phone companies. Coverage is good around Banjul and most other towns, but patchy in remote rural areas.

Internet

Email can be accessed in internet cafes in major towns, where the connection is generally reliable.

Media

State-run Gambia Radio and Television Service (GRTS) broadcasts tightly-controlled news that is heavily pro-government. Private media are severely restricted, with radio stations and newspapers having to pay large licence fees. The government operates the only national television station, Gambia Television; Premium TV Network and Gam DI are private satellite channels. QTV is The Gambia’s first private television station. Radio Gambia transmits programmes in English and local languages.

A media bill passed in March 2002 was considered a threat to press freedom. The law set up a commission whose powers range from issuing licences to jailing journalists. In 2004, further legislation was introduced allowing for jail terms for journalists found guilty of libel or sedition. The assassination in 2004 of Deyda Hydara, an editor at The Point newspaper opposed to President Jammeh and one of the press law’s leading critics, further raised the stakes. Daily Observer and The Point are daily newspapers in English. Foroyaa and The Standard are other English publications that report on culture, politics and news.

Post

The postal service can be slow and unreliable; letters are generally ok but parcels and larger items frequently get lost. The main post office is on Russell Street Banjul.

Post Office hours

Hours may vary but generally, Mon-Thu 0800-1215 and 1400-1600, Fri 0830-1215 and 1430-1600, Sat 0830-1200.

Nightlife & Shopping

Shopping in Gambia

Hunt down souvenirs and local handicrafts in the various bengdulas (craft markets), dotted around Banjul and the resort areas. Banjul’s Albert Market and the sprawling commercial heart of the busy town of Serrekunda are particularly colourful places to browse. Popular purchases include colourful batik wall hangings, handmade clothing, woodcarvings, bead jewellery and traditional djembe drums. Beaded belts and ladies’ handbags are also popular, as are books and albums made from recycled paper and West African handicrafts using straw, beads, leather, cloth or metal. Fajara, Kololi, Serrekunda and Brikama have a few shops and market stalls which supply African tribal curios such as masks and textiles.

Shopping Note

Haggling is part and parcel of shopping in the markets in The Gambia. Be prepared to barter for the best price. If you don’t want to pay the asking price, simply walk away. However, if you agree a price, it is impolite to change your mind.

Shopping hours

Hours may vary but generally, Mon-Thu 0900-1700, Fri 0900-1230, Sat 0900-1300. Some shops may stay open later in tourist areas.

Nightlife in Gambia

Gambian nightlife is fairly subdued and is concentrated in the coastal resorts and in Serrekunda, the largest city. The resort hotels put on regular performances of Gambian drumming, dancing and fire-eating for their guests; the best of these are highly energetic, and audience participation is encouraged. Hotels and restaurants also organise more tranquil musical evenings featuring traditional music played on the kora, a type of 21-stringed West African lute, and the balafon, a xylophone-style instrument.

Most of the country’s nightclubs and bars are found in the tourist hubs of Bakau and the Senegambia area of Kololi, with a few close to the Kotu and Cape Point hotels. Many feature live or recorded Mbalax music, the region’s contribution to world music. Jokor, Serrekunda’s long-running garden club, and Wow Night Club in Kololi, both draw large crowds of locals and tourists and are good places to catch West African bands and DJs. Major concerts featuring rap, reggae and African music stars from Senegal and beyond are held at Independence Stadium in Bakau. Further inland, the small town of Brikama has a low-key but significant music scene.

Meals & Beverages

The Gambia has a thriving delicious local cuisine with lots of fresh produce to try and is available at restaurants and hotels. Some hotels and restaurants organise Gambian-style barbecue-buffet nights featuring freshly grilled local fish and chicken, spicy stews and rice dishes. International food is also available at most tourist hotels and restaurants.

Specialties

• Benachin – also called Jollof Rice in other countries, a mixture of seasoned meat (fish, mutton, chicken or beef) and rice with tomatoes, tomato paste, onions and The vegetarian option replaces meat with vegetables.
• Domodah – the national dish of The Gambia, domodah is meat stewed in groundnut puree and served with rice.
• Chicken yassa – chicken cooked with onions, garlic and lime, served with rice.
• Plasas – meat and smoked fish cooked in palm oil with spinach, served with rice.
• Mafe – meat stew simmered in sauce thickened with ground peanuts.
• Haako – steamed couscous served with a vegetable sauce.

Things to know

With only a few exceptions, Gambian bars and restaurants are more frequented by tourists than locals. Many Gambians don’t drink alcohol, and most prefer to entertain at home, only eating out when away from home or on business.

Tipping

Tips are discretionary. A 10% service charge is sometimes included in hotel and restaurant bills.

Drinking age

18 but not strictly adhered to as so few people consume alcohol.

Regional drinks

• Jul Brew is the local speciality
• Attaya – strong and sweet home-brewed
• Baobab juice – a pale non-alcoholic drink made from the fruit of the giant baobab
• Palm wine – a misty white and sweet alcoholic drink made from the sap of certain palm
• Wonjo juice – a non-alcoholic drink made from dried hibiscus
• Freshly pressed and mixed fruit juice is sold from beach Make sure the vendor peels the fruit and prepares the juice in front of you.

Getting Around

Air

There are currently no domestic flights available within The Gambia.

Road

Driving is often difficult and slow. Roads in the city centre, around resort towns and those leading to the hotel areas from the airport are reasonably good. However, venture away from those areas and you’ll find more unpaved roads or heavily potholed roads. Vehicles often have to weave slowly and dramatically or drive adjacent to the road on a dirt track to avoid potholes.

Although locals will as a rule drive on the right side, they will often drive on the most accessible portion of the road. Be cautious when driving.

There is a limited number of streetlights in The Gambia. Make sure your car has working headlights and drive with caution during the night. It may also be worth bringing a small torch.

During the rainy season, roads will often become flooded. Take caution when driving in less built-up areas.

Road Quality

Major roads in The Gambia are paved, as well as roads in city centres and around resort towns and the airport. Throughout the country, most minor roads are unpaved, and potholes and free-roaming livestock are common. Streetlights and signage are sparse in The Gambia. Driving at night can be dangerous due to the lack of streetlights – ensure your car has fully-functional headlights.

Road Classification

There are two main roads: North Bank Road (north of the River Gambia) and South Bank Road (south of the river). Both are surfaced with tarmac and in a reasonably good condition. The main roads close to the coast are better but don’t allow you to get far off the beaten track before they deteriorate.

Car Hire

Greater Banjul has a few local and international providers including Avis (www.avis.co.uk). Alternatively, the resort areas are best equipped to supply hire vehicles. It is more common to hire a car and a driver for a daily rate, especially for longer journeys. You can also pick up a vehicle at Banjul International Airport. Driving can be difficult due to variable road conditions; some minor roads become impassable during the rainy season (June to October). Please note that hired cars cannot be driven out of the Gambia into Senegal. Most companies will require you to be 25 years old to rent a car. UK Nationals using a UK driving license may drive for up to three months.

Taxi

Bush taxis: Apart from private taxis, shared taxis (cars known as isept-place’, minibuses or vans known as ‘Gelli-gellis’) are the only form of public transport between towns and villages. They wait at their starting point until full then travel along fixed routes, stopping wherever passengers want to get on or off. They are not allowed to enter some areas of the tourist coastal region or Cape Point. Fares are fixed.

Private taxis: There are two types; neither have meters. Tourist taxis are painted green and are licensed by the Gambian Tourist Authority (GTA) to operate mainly from ranks in the resort areas; each rank has a noticeboard listing tariffs by destination. Local taxis are painted yellow with green stripes and can be hailed in the street; fares are lower and should be agreed in advance. Both types of taxi can travel anywhere in the country.

Bike

Available to hire at many hotels and resorts, these are a cheap and convenient way to explore the country as the landscape is flat and distances are short. If you get tired, load the bike onto a bus or bush taxi for a small luggage fee.

Coach

The Gambia Transport Service Company (www.gtsc.gm/) connects the major cities and towns throughout the day although departures are irregular and journey times often long.

Regulations

Drive on the right and overtake on the left, but beware that drivers often stick to whichever bit of road is in the best condition. There are almost no streetlights, so take care after dark.

Speed limits are 70kph (43mph) on major highways and 25kph (16mph) in residential areas.

Breakdown services

There is no automobile association or official organisation, but there are lots of improvised garages along major roads where minor repairs can be made.

Documentation

An International Driving Permit is accepted for up to three months. A temporary licence is available from the local authorities on presentation of a valid national licence.

Urban travel

Bush taxis (shared cars, minibuses or vans) and private taxis are the only form of public transport in Gambian towns.

Rail

There is no passenger railway in The Gambia.

Water

There are nearly a dozen points where travellers can cross the River Gambia by boat. Vehicle and passenger ferries between Banjul’s commercial port and the town facing it across the river mouth, Barra, runs in each direction every day (from 0700-2100). Tour operators run adventure and fishing trips using small motorboats or large converted pirogues and offer day cruises along the river with lunch or dinner and a live band.

Healthcare

* A yellow fever vaccination certificate is required from all travellers over nine months of age arriving from endemic or infected areas. Travellers arriving from non-endemic zones should note that vaccination is strongly recommended for travel outside the urban areas, even if an outbreak of the disease has not been reported and they would not normally require a vaccination certificate to enter the country.

Health Care

Visitors are advised to bring sunscreen, insect repellent and indigestion/diarrhoea medicines; all of these can prove expensive in The Gambia. The government plays a dominant role in health services, but private practices exist in the urban and resort areas. Health insurance is strongly advised. Prescription drugs should be carried in their original containers and with a copy of the prescription.

Note: Some over-the-counter and prescription medicines are banned under The Gambia’s drug laws. These include medicines like those containing diazepam or codeine.

Food and Drink

Mains water in the urban and resort areas is safe. Elsewhere, water for drinking, brushing teeth or making ice should be boiled or otherwise sterilised. Fresh milk should be boiled if unpasteurised; powdered or tinned milk is preferable. Avoid unpasteurised dairy products. Meat, fish and vegetables should be cooked, and fruit peeled. Avoid fruits and vegetables with bruised or broken skin.

Other Risks

Diarrhoeal diseases including giardiasis are common. Bilharzia (schistosomiasis) is present; avoid swimming and paddling in stagnant fresh water. Hepatitis E is widespread. Hepatitis B is endemic. Cholera is a risk, and up-to-date advice should be sought on the most suitable precautions. Rabies is present in dogs, bats and other mammals in The Gambia. Visitors who are planning on taking part in outdoor activities are at risk.

Holidays

Below are listed Public Holidays in Gambia

New Year’s Day

01 January 2020

Independence Day

18 February 2020

Good Friday

10 April 2020

Easter Monday

13 April 2020

Labour Day

01 May 2020

Koriteh (End of Ramadan)

24 May 2020

Revolution Day

22 July 2020

Tabaski (Feast of Sacrifice)

31 July 2020

Assumption

15 August 2020

Milad un Nabi (Birth of the Prophet Muhammad)

29 October 2020

Note: Celebrated S days later for Shi’a.

Christmas Day

25 December 2020

Duty free & Currency

Currency and Money

Currency information

Gambian Dalasi (GMD; symbol D) = 100 bututs. Notes are in denominations of D100, 50, 25, 20, 10 and 5. Coins are in denominations of D1, and 50, 25, 10, 5 and 1 bututs.

Note: Only 25 and SO bututs and D1 coins are in circulation. Also, in August 2019, the Central Bank of The Gambia released new dalasi notes which don’t include the portrait of former president Yahya Jammeh. The new notes are D200, 100, 50, 20, 10 and 5.

Credit cards

While some mid-range and top-end hotels will accept American Express, MasterCard and Visa if arranged at the beginning of the stay, most local businesses only accept payment by cash or traveller’s cheques. ATMs are available in large urban areas but are few in number and not always reliable. Due to credit card and bank fraud, caution is advised when using credit cards and ATMs.

ATM

ATMs are available in large urban areas and at some banks and some petrol stations in Banjul but are few in number and not always reliable. Due to credit card and bank fraud, caution is advised when using credit cards and ATMs.

Travellers cheques

AMEX travellers’ cheques can be changed at some bank branches in Banjul.

Banking hours

Times may vary depending on the bank and whether it’s in a city or not. Generally, opening hours are Mon-Fri 0800-1600, Sat 0800-1230. Banks may be closed during the middle of the day for lunch.

Currency restrictions

There are no restrictions on the import of local or foreign currency. Exported currency must not exceed the amount imported.

Currency exchange

There is a bank/bureau de change (Trust Bank) at the airport. The capital, Banjul, and the nearby towns of Serrekunda, Bakau, Fajara and Kololi have a number of banks where foreign currencies can be exchanged. Exchange bureaux can be found in all the main tourist resorts. Some hotels also offer foreign exchange facilities but tend to charge high commissions. As The Gambia is a cash economy travellers are advised to carry sufficient currency to cover expenses of a planned visit.

Gambia duty free

Overview

The following goods may be imported into The Gambia by travellers over 18 without incurring customs duty:

• 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250g of tobacco
• 1L of wine or beer
• 250c1 of perfume
• Goods up to a value of D1,000

Import Regulations

Fake money, pornographic material and narcotics.