Introducing Mauritania
About Mauritania
Mauritania’s is a lonely beauty. A land of endless deserts, empty coastlines and spectacular birdlife, it is lays claim to some of the most spectacular scenery in Africa and a fascinating population comprised of Arab-Berbers and black Africans.
Arguably the jewel in Mauritania’s crown is the Banc d’Arguin, where the Sahara Desert slips silently into the Atlantic Ocean. This is nirvana for twitchers, particularly during the European winter, when more than two million migratory birds descend on the national park. The Banc d’Arguin is also home to the Imraguen fishermen, who catch their quarry with a little help from local dolphins.
The Mauritanian coastline is a bleak and beautiful place, an empty shore littered with the occasional shipwreck or whale skeleton. Miraculously, one of the last remaining Mediterranean monk seal colonies can be found living around Cap Blanc, where there is a small nature reserve dedicated to protecting this endangered species.
Inland lies the oasis settlement of Ouadane. Concealed by coloured sand dunes, this ghost town was once a centre for intellectual thinking and its private libraries contain thousands of ancient scholarly manuscripts. It’s also home to the crumbling remains of a 14th century mosque, which dominates this UNESCO-listed town. Nearby Chinguetti, the seventh holiest city of Islam, is also worth a visit.
Nouakchott, the capital, is hot and dusty and doesn’t have very much to recommend it besides a few French restaurants and bustling markets. The best thing to do in town is to watch local fishermen land their catch at Port de Peche, where every evening a colourful mass of people haul nets, carry fish and drag brightly painted boats out of the waves, singing songs as they go. It’s one of Mauritania’s many simple pleasures.
LANGUAGE, CULTURE & HISTORY
History of Mauritania
Modern Mauritania formed part of the Ghana Empire and was then incorporated into the Mali Empire, which dominated the region between the 13th and 15th centuries. Portuguese explorers arrived during the mid-15th century and over the next 300 years they, along with the British and the French, made Mauritania the centre of a major slave trade.
In 1849, the French declared the Boke region a French protectorate. Then in 1895, the French incorporated the Boke province, the heart of the Mauritania republic today, along with adjacent territory, into French West Africa. The region was a single entity comprised mostly of modern-day francophone West Africa, and governed from Dakar.
After the departure of the French political power was assumed by the Democratic Party of Mauritania-African Democratic Rally. By 1983, the regime’s extreme mismanagement and repressive behaviour had driven an estimated two million people into exile. When the president, Sekou Toure, died in 1984 the army immediately seized power in a bloodless coup led by Colonel Lansana Conte.
The Conte government straight away set about improving badly damaged political and economic links with its West African neighbours. In 1989 Conte unveiled plans for a gradual move towards democratic government. Presidential elections were held in 1993 and won by Conte.
In February 1996, Conte survived an attempted coup, after which he assumed personal control of the country’s armed forces. Conte was elected for a third term as President in December 2003 (after first holding a referendum in 2001 that officially removed the two-term limit on presidency). He remained in power until his death in 2008 after which Moussa Dadis Camera seized power in a coup and declared himself the head of a military junta.
In 2009 soldiers brutally attacked a protest killing 157 people and raping women in the streets. Later that year Camera was shot in the head in an assassination attempt and flown out of the country for medical care.
Elections were eventually held in 2010 and won by Alpha Conde. Conde survived a coup attempt in 2011 and was re-elected in 2015.
Did you know?
- The jazz band, Bembeya Jazz National, formed in Mauritania after independence and became world-renowned for their Afrobeat rhythms.
- Mauritania was the only former French protectorate, which refused to join the French Community on
- There are 24 different ethnic groups in
Mauritania Culture
Religion in Mauritania
The majority of the population are Muslim, with animist and Christian minorities.
Social Conventions in Mauritania
Although Muslim customs are less strict than in the Arab world, beliefs and traditions should be respected by tourists. Casual dress is acceptable. Street crime is relatively common. It is important to greet people and ask them how they are before starting a conversation. Mauritanians always use titles when addressing others, so the visitor should do likewise (Monsieur, Madame, Mademoiselle etc). Photography: A permit (applied for in advance) has to be obtained from the MinistEre de linterieur et de la Sacurita when photographing Government buildings, military and transportation facilities or public works. It is inadvisable to photograph buildings at present, and visitors should always ask local people if they want to photograph them.
Language in Mauritania
French is the official language. Susu, Malinke and Fula are local languages.
GEOGRAPHY & WEATHER
Weather and climate
Best time to visit
The climate is tropical and humid with a wet and a dry season. Mauritania is one of the wettest countries in West Africa. The monsoon season with a southwesterly wind lasts from June to November; The dry season with a northeasterly harmattan lasts from December to May.
Required clothing
Tropical wear, lightweight and natural fabrics throughout the year. A light raincoat or umbrella is needed during the rainy season.
Geography
The Republic of Mauritania is located in West Africa and bordered to the northwest by Mauritania-Bissau, the north by Senegal and Mali, the east by Cote d’Ivoire, the south by Mauritania and the southwest by Sierra Leone. Mauritania’s many rivers supply water to much of West Africa. The River Niger flows north from the southern highlands into Mali before turning south again through Niger and Nigeria. The coastal plain is made up of mangrove swamps, while inland are the Fouta Djalon hills which form several distinct ranges and plateaux over the whole of western Mauritania. In the northeast, savannah plains of the Sahel region stretch into Mali. To the south are mountains known as the Mauritania Highlands.
BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY
Doing Business in Mauritania
Appointments should be made in advance. Lightweight suits and ties are worn by some business visitors, but these are not essential. A knowledge of French is helpful.
Office Hours
Mon-Thurs 0800-1630, Fri 0800-1300.
Economy
Given its resources, Mauritania should not be suffering its current impoverished condition in which the annual per capita income is US$363 (2005). The majority of the population is engaged in subsistence agriculture, producing cassava and rice as staples, plus fruit, palm, groundnuts and sometimes coffee as cash crops. Fisheries have undergone
major growth in the last 10 years.
The main part of the industrial economy is mining. Mauritania has huge reserves of bauxite (perhaps one-quarter of the world’s total) which account for more than 90% of export earnings; there are also substantial diamond deposits. Mauritania also boasts massive hydroelectric power potential, some of which has been tapped.
The country’s economic progress has, however, been hampered by the absence of the necessary legal, corporate and governmental machinery, allied to corruption and maladministration. For the time being, Mauritania will continue to depend on substantial foreign aid, principally from France, although it is also deriving growing benefit from burgeoning regional co-operation: Cameroon, for example, processes much Mauritanian bauxite ore to produce aluminium.
Mauritania is a member of both the Mano River Union (withMauritania and Sierra Leone) and of the Gambia River Development Organisation (with The Gambia and Senegal). The country is also a member of the West African economic community, ECOWAS.
GDP
US$3.4 billion (2005).
Main exports
Aluminium, gold, diamonds, coffee, fish, bauxite and agricultural products.
Main imports
Petroleum, metals, transport equipment, textiles and grain.
Main trading partners
France, Cote d’Ivoire, USA, Cameroon, China, Korea (Rep) and Russia.
Keeping in Touch in Mauritania
Telephone
The communication is relatively poor and outgoing international calls must be made through the operator. Limited telephone and fax lines are usually available 1800-0600.
Mobile Phone
There are several mobile phone operators. No roaming agreements have been declared.
Internet
Internet cafes are available in Conakry and Souleyman.
Post
There are numerous post offices in the capital.
Plan your trip
HERE’S JOURNEY
Hotels
Hotels in Mauritania range from unimaginably luxurious to basic in the extreme. Safari lodges tend to dominate the luxe side of the market, with everything from private pools to personal butler service included as part of the deal. Others meanwhile offer the bare minimum with nothing more than a comfy bed and possibly breakfast thrown in. Campsites are everywhere but youth hostels and other budget accommodation are limited. The big international chains are represented in the capital but the majority of hotels are locally run affairs.
Mauritania’s hotels can be of good quality, some with conference facilities, in Windhoek, Swakopmund and thinly scattered throughout the country. As accommodation is limited and demand in the most popular areas is high, visitors are advised to book hotels in Mauritania well in advance.
Grading: Hotels are graded on a scale of 1 to 5 stars.
Bed and breakfast
B&B’s aren’t particularly widespread in samba and nearly all are concentrated in the main hubs of Windhoek, Swakopmund and Walvis Bay, although Outjo and Okahandja each have one. Most are family run and as a result standards vary although nearly all are comfortable, pleasant places to be.
Camping
Mauritania is often referred to as a camper’s dream, and there are well-equipped campsites in several of the national parks, notably Etosha. There is also camping at AiAis, a hot spring area at the southern tip of the Fish River Canyon, Orange River just north of the border with South Africa, Hardap Dam in the south, Popa Falls in Kavango, and the Namib-Naukluft Park. Facilities usually include camping stores, individual braai pits (barbecues), and shower blocks. Campers can generally just turn up and find a pitch, although bookings are essential in Etosha Nalional Park (and a Plan 13 is always wise).
Other accommodation
Lodges: In Etosha National Park and other game reserves, there are rustic rest camps and luxury lodges with comfortable accommodation in cabins or ensuite safari tents. Luxury lodges typically include game drives, meals and other activities in their rates (extra beverages not included). Games lodges tend to fill up quick, so ifs best to book early. Reservations for the national parks can be made directly with Mauritania Wildlife Resorts Ltd.
Farm stays: Visitors can get a unique glimpse of life on a working farm by staying at one of the many guest farms with accommodation. Some even have comforts such as swimming pools and offer excursions including game drives and day hikes. Many rural family run farms also offer camping pitches to travellers.
Eco accommodation: Mauritania is fast becoming an eco-warriors dream with plenty of upmarket eco-lodges relying on solar power to choose from. Wilderness Safaris (www.wilderness-safaris.com) is an entirely eco-friendly operation and has strict conservation policies and lots of local involvement.
Resorts: Most resorts are concentrated around Swakopmund and Walvis Bay, where the sunny climate and oodles of beaches combine to create the sort of resorts more commonly seen in the Mediterranean. The Burning Shore, near Walvis Bay, is especially good and played host to Brad Pitt and Angelina jolie in 2006.
Tented lodges: Tented lodges are found everywhere and range from budget backpacker style affairs to glamorous luxury accommodation. Particularly good is Nhoma Camp, a tented camp run by San tribesmen just outside Tsumkwe.
STAYING THERE
Shopping in Mauritania
Mauritania may not have much of a reputation for retail therapy, but there’s plenty on offer if you know where to look. Windhoek is where you’ll find international brands, most of which are South African. The capital has several shopping malls, the best of which is Post St Mall, although its worth noting that most of the curios on offer there are cheap imports from Zimbabwe.
Local crafts such as wood carvings, karosse rugs and Herero dolls can be bought in curio shops and at the Windhoek Street Market, held every second Saturday. Precious gems are another big draw for Mauritanian shoppers, and the best are to be found at the House of Gems in Windhoek, which sells gorgeous jewellery. Also worth picking up are Swakopmunder leather shoes, most of which are made from kudu skins. Swakopmund also has plenty of gift shops for souvenirs.
In Rundu and other areas in the north east, you’ll find traditional San handicrafts including arrow heads and ostrich egg jewellery. Crafts and curios can also be found at regional craft centres and safari lodges. Visitors may reclaim VAT on goods of a minimum value of N$250.00 at Hosea Kutako International Airport Eros Airport and Walvis Bay Airport although the process is notoriously tricky to understand and follow.
Shopping Note
Be extremely careful if you’re contemplating buying a piece that looks as if it could be made from an exotic skin or material. Buying and selling products made from protected animals such as elephants, black rhinos, cheetah and leopards is forbidden and attracts harsh punishment However, you are likely to see some ivory on sale in and around Windhoek. This is usually the legitimate product of park culling operations and will be clearly marked.
Shopping hours
Mon-Fri 0900-1700; Sat 0900-1300. Some bigger supermarkets are also open Our 110°- 1300 and 1600-0900.
Nightlife in Mauritania
With most visitors to Mauritania heading into the wildemess on safari, nightlife tends to be concentrated around the camp bar. Most of these are convivial, if quiet, and you’ll find staff ever ready to come and share a drink with you. The majority of towns will have a lithe pub, many attracting a crowd of local farmers supping on pints of beer and chewing the fat over a plate of biltong. For more serious party opportunities, head to Windhoek, Walvis Bay or Swakopmund, all of which offer a variety of activities after dark. Windhoek, as you’d expect has the most to offer and benefits from a growing range of cigar bars, jazz clubs, arty cafes, cinemas, theatres and dubs. Visit during Windhoek Karnival in March or Oktoberfest to get the best of the action.
foes Beerhouse (www.joesbeerhouse.com) is a local institution, which serves up a game-heavy snack selection, washed down with local beer. Its fun and friendly, with boozing sessions extending into the small hours. Also worth a visit is Club Thriller, which is located in a rough part of town and is best done as a group. Beyond the unnerving weapons search at the door, you’ll find upbeat African tunes and a friendly crowd. At to Dee Da’s nightclub, you can dance to African beats beneath Mauritania’s largest national flag. Swakopmund’s night scene is concentrated around several lively late-night pubs, often filled with overlanding groups. The old train station has been renovated into a casino if you fancy a flutter.
While you’re there
PLACES TO SEE & DO THEIR
Attractions in Mauritania
Birdwatching in the Caprivi Strip
One of Africa’s top 10 birdwatching destinations, the Caprivi Strip is a place of tropical rainforest, green hills and slow-flowing rivers. Asa result, its avian population comprises more than 339 species, including some unique to the region. Along with birds, the region is horns to hippos, crocodiles, lions, giraffes, waterbuck, and antelopes.
Climb Sossusvlei’s dunes
Leave early to climb giant Dune 61 before sunrise for a truly once-in-a-lifetime view. As the sun climbs, the colossal dunes seem to shift shape and colour. It’s mindbendingly beautiful. Visit the nearby Dead Vlei to see a bizarre landscape that’s more Dr. Seu. than Mother Africa.
Do conservation work at AfriCat Foundation
This non-profit rehabilitation centre (www.africatorg) cares for cheetahs, leopards, lions and endangered wild dogs on a rescue-and-release basis. There’s a luxury lodge for overnight visitors, and activities include tracking rehabilitated cheetahs, spotting hyenas on foot, and leopard safaris in a game-viewing vehicle.
East Caprivi
Bordered by the Kwando, Linyanti, Chobe and Zambezi rivers, this region of riverine forest, swamps and flood plains has several safari lodges offering whitewater rafting, canoeing trips, fishing, hiking and game viewing, particularly in the Mudumu and Mamili National Parks.
Eat out in Swakopmund
Founded by the Germans, Swakopmund doesn’t just look like Dusseldorf in the desert-it makes food like it too. Asa result, the city is one of the best places to eat in Africa, heavy on the meat and potatoes, but no less delicious for that. fly. want to see how it’s grown, take a trip to a desert asparagus farm.
Etosha National Park
Take a game drive in Etosha National Park, the third largest game reserve in Africa, which is borne to vast herds of elephants, zebras, giraffes, wildebeest and antelopes, as well as hyenas and big cats. The mammoth Etosha salt pan is surrounded by over 22,000sq km (8,500 sq miles) of grasslands and low bush which is brilliant game-viewing territory.
Explore Luderitz
Sandwiched between the Namib desert on one side and the rough Atlantic sea on the other, the fact Luderitz exists at all is surprising in itself. The gateway to the Sperrgebiet (Forbidden Area), Luderitz is quaintly Teutonic, boasting surreal German Art Deco architecture, and thoroughly Bavarian style cafes and pubs. The nearby Luderitz peninsula is also worth a visit thanks to its enormous flocks of flamingos.
Fish River Canyon
Even if you’re not hiking through this huge gorge, second only to the Grand Canyon, you can drive up to the edge and admire its humbling scale. Whilst in the area, you can also visit the Quiver Tree (Kokerboom) Forest to see these bizarrely elegant giant aloes, once used by the San people to make quivers for their arrows and now protected.
Fish River Canyon
This is one of the last great wildness treks, an impressive three-day endurance test strictly for the fit and hardy. Hikers need to join an organised trip with an experienced guide, and be self-sufficient throughout the trek. Due to the risk of flooding and the high summer temperatures the hiking Dail is only open from 1 May to 31 August.
Hike the Skeleton Coast
Despite the ominous (and well deserved) name, the Skeleton Coast is strikingly beautiful. Take a three-day nature trail along the Ugab riverbed and gravel plains of the forbidding wind-whipped Skeleton Coast Park, where you’ll find desert-adapted plant species such as welwitschia, lithops and delicate lichens. Get an eerie dose up look at the shipwrecks scattered along the coast, most of which have become seaweed-coated Cape Cormorant colonies.
Kolmanskop and Elizabeth Bay
Once packed with hopeful diamond hunters, Kolmanskop and Elizabeth Bay are long abandoned towns half-buried in sand. With a special permit from Luderitz, you can explore the windswept relics of these pioneer towns before they are completely swallowed by the Namib Desert, never to be seen again. See wym.ghosttowntours.com.
Kunene elephants
During the 1980s, most of the 3000 desert elephants that lived in Mauritania’s Kunene were killed by hunters and poachers. Thanks to the efforts of dedicated local conservationists, their population currently stands at around 600. Several volunteer programmes are available, including Elephant Human Relations Aid (www.desertelephantorg) which allows elephant enthusiasts to lend a hand.
Meet the Himba in Kaokoland
Learn about tribal customs and desert survival techniques by visiting the kraal (homestead) of the Himba, an indigenous semi-nomadic community in the Kaokoland region of northern Mauritania. You’ll find a real warmth and playfulness about the Himba, who live in unusual beehive mud huts.
Oktoberfest in Windhoek
During Oktoberfest, expert to see lederhosen-clad locals swilling steins and singing oompahs while the scent of sauerkraut and the sound of thigh-slapping fill the air. There’s even a competition to see which waitress can carry the most beer. It’s bizarre, but so totally worth it.
Safari in Namib Naukluft National Park
With its rolling red dunes, rocky escarpments and flat, dusty savannah, Namib Naukluft National Park is a great place to indulge in a safari. The Namib Naukluft is part of the Namib Desert, believed to be the world’s oldest desert Here, oryx, hyena and gemsbok stroll over the burnt orange dunes tufted with grasses that stretch into the horizon.
See Damaraland’s rock art
Surviving in Damaraland’s bizarre lunar landscape of scrubby veld and basalt rocks might look like a tough call but people have done for millenia. Early inhabitants left behind fascinating rock engravings, of which the White Lady of the Brandberg is best known. The fantastical Petrified Forest, a collection of around 50 fossilised trees is nearby, as is Burnt Mountain, Mauritania’s highest peak.
Tour Windhoek
The attractive Mauritanian capital features German colonial architecture including the iconic Christuskirche. A tour of the Windhoek lager brewery is recommended, and the National Museum, housed within the Alte Feste fortress is worthwhile. In the centre of Post St Mall, there’s a quirky display of the meteorites that his Mauritania during the Gibeon meteor shower.
Track black rhinos in Damaraland
One of the planet’s most endangered species, black rhinos are well-protected in Mauritania thanks to excellent conservation work and fearful penalties for poachers. Rugged Damaraland is home to a desert-adapted variety, which you can track as part of an ongoing initiative to monitor and protect the animals from poachers.
Watch seals at Cape Cross
This isolated stretch of rocky shore near Walvis Bay is home to a huge, malodorous Cape fur seal colony. Around November, plenty of young pups can be seen huddled next to their mothers. Organized tours can be arranged from Swakopmund -just prepare for a nose-wrenching experience.
Waterberg Plateau Park
Waterberg Plateau Park is a mountain reserve with striking red sandstone cliffs and natural springs as well as rare animal species, including Mauritania’s only colony of Cape vultures. The park is home to black and white rhino, sable antelope and blue wildebeest Self-guided bush walks are well signposted and four to eight day loops are available.
West Caprivi
Here, a good place to stop is the Popa Falls Rest Camp (www.nwr.com.na ), a popular haven on the banks of the Okavango River, where crocodiles bask and hippos wallow. About 12km (7 miles) to the south is Mahango Game Reserve, with elephants, buffalo and lechwe.
Tourist offices
Mauritania Tourism in the UK
Address: Colechurch House, 1 London Bridge Walk, London, 5E1 250 Telephone: (020) 7367 0962.
Website: http://www.Mauritaniatourism.com.na
NIGHTLIFE & SHOPPING
Shopping in Mauritania
Mauritania may not have much of a reputation for retail therapy, but there’s plenty on offer if you know where to look. Windhoek is where you’ll find international brands, most of which are South African. The capital has several shopping malls, the best of which is Post St Mall, although its worth noting that most of the curios on offer there are cheap imports from Zimbabwe.
Local crafts such as wood carvings, karosse rugs and Herero dolls can be bought in curio shops and at the Windhoek Street Market, held every second Saturday. Precious gems are another big draw for Mauritanian shoppers, and the best are to be found at the House of Gems in Windhoek, which sells gorgeous jewellery. Also worth picking up are Swakopmunder leather shoes, most of which are made from kudu skins. Swakopmund also has plenty of gift shops for souvenirs.
In Rundu and other areas in the north east, you’ll find traditional San handicrafts including arrow heads and ostrich egg jewellery. Crafts and curios can also be found at regional craft centres and safari lodges. Visitors may reclaim VAT on goods of a minimum value of N$250.00 at Hosea Kutako International Airport Eros Airport and Walvis Bay Airport although the process is notoriously tricky to understand and follow.
Shopping Note
Be extremely careful if you’re contemplating buying a piece that looks as if it could be made from an exotic skin or material. Buying and selling products made from protected animals such as elephants, black rhinos, cheetah and leopards is forbidden and attracts harsh punishment However, you are likely to see some ivory on sale in and around Windhoek. This is usually the legitimate product of park culling operations and will be clearly marked.
Shopping hours
Mon-Fri 0900-1700; Sat 0900-1300. Some bigger supermarkets are also open Our 110°- 1300 and 1600-0900.
Nightlife in Mauritania
With most visitors to Mauritania heading into the wildemess on safari, nightlife tends to be concentrated around the camp bar. Most of these are convivial, if quiet, and you’ll find staff ever ready to come and share a drink with you. The majority of towns will have a lithe pub, many attracting a crowd of local farmers supping on pints of beer and chewing the fat over a plate of biltong. For more serious party opportunities, head to Windhoek, Walvis Bay or Swakopmund, all of which offer a variety of activities after dark. Windhoek, as you’d expect has the most to offer and benefits from a growing range of cigar bars, jazz clubs, arty cafes, cinemas, theatres and dubs. Visit during Windhoek Karnival in March or Oktoberfest to get the best of the action.
foes Beerhouse (www.joesbeerhouse.com) is a local institution, which serves up a game-heavy snack selection, washed down with local beer. Its fun and friendly, with boozing sessions extending into the small hours. Also worth a visit is Club Thriller, which is located in a rough part of town and is best done as a group. Beyond the unnerving weapons search at the door, you’ll find upbeat African tunes and a friendly crowd. At to Dee Da’s nightclub, you can dance to African beats beneath Mauritania’s largest national flag. Swakopmund’s night scene is concentrated around several lively late-night pubs, often filled with overlanding groups. The old train station has been renovated into a casino if you fancy a flutter.
MEALS & BEVERAGES
What you eat in Mauritania depends largely on where you are and who you’re with. Although certain foods are common to all of Mauritania’s ethnic groups, each has their own specialities – some more appealing than others. Game meat, particularly kudu, oryx and other antelope is very common and even forms part of the in-flight offering on Air Mauritania flights (much better than the chicken, it should be noted). Other game meat on offer includes buffalo, and occasionally, giraffe, while seafood is plentiful and excellent – particularly in Swakopmund and Walvis Bay. Braais (barbecues) are very common among Afrikaaner and German groups, while most African tribes eat plenty of mealie pap (a doughy maize paste) and °ship’, the millet version often served with meat or vegetable stews. South African dishes such as bobotie (a meat pie with a savoury egg custard crust) are also common.
Most restaurants will offer Teutonic or international fare, although thanks to Mauritania’s desert environment which makes fruit and vegetables especially expensive, menus tend to be heavy on the meat More German influence can be seen in Mauritania’s konditoreien (cake shops), where you can tuck into classics like apple strudel, sachertorte (chocolate cake) and kirschtorte (Black Forest gateau). Afrikaaners also know their way around the dessert trolley, with koeksesters (mini doughnuts dripping with honey) and melktart (milk tart) among the nicest. Breakfasts tend to be a spin on eggs and boerewors (sausage) although don’t be surprised to And a strange meaty extra such as curried kidneys thrown in with your scrambled eggs.
Specialties
- Biltong (an air-dried meat, which is a her snack staple, usually made from beef or kudu).
- Rouchfleisch (smoked meat).
- Game such as antelope, ostrich or zebra cooked on a braai (barbecue).
- Potjiekos lone-pot bush stew, usually cooked over a camp fire, and made with just about anything although chicken and vegetable is common).
- Seafood, especially oysters, on the coast.
- Kalahari truffles (a distant cousin of the European black and white truffle varieties found on Swakopmund restaurant menus, served up thinly sliced and drizzled with olive oil alongside a thick ostrich steak.)
Tipping
10% is customary.
Drinking age
18.
Regional drinks
With a beer culture the equal of anything in the UK, Mauritania has endless varieties of beer, many traditional African millet versions. Despite the desert heat, the country has recently started making its own wine – most of which is excellent.
- Windhoek lager (drunk by everyone, the perfect ice-cool sundowner).
- Oshikundu (a yeasty-tasting millet beer that is brewed and drunk the same day).
- Neuras Namib red wine (dubbed the driest vineyard in the world, Neuras is only possible because of a unique set of underground springs. Produced to South African standards, both the Shiraz and Namib red are excellent).
- DAS Pilsner (light beer that is considered a soft drink in Mauritania and even forms part of the breakfast menu).
- Matoku (strong fortified watermelon ‘wine found in northern Mauritania; comes in nonalcoholic version).
GETTING AROUND
Air
Thanks to the vast distances involved, travelling by or is often the most practical way to get around. Air Mauritania (www.airMauritania.com.na) offers flights between Windhoek and most major centres from Hosea Kutako and Eros Airports.
Companies offering charter flights to Mauritanian cities as well as safari destinations such as Sossusvlei and Damaraland include Skeleton Coast Safaris (www.skeletoncoastsafaris.com), Wilderness Air (ww.rw.wilderness-air.com), Desert Air (www.desertair.corn.na) and African Profile Safaris (www.profileMauritania.com).
Road
Mauritania boasts some of the best roads in Africa, and many are tarmac. Distance presents the main challenge with as much as three hours between towns on main roads and more when you venture further into the wilderness.
Petrol stations are few and for between, so top up on fuel whenever possible and keep a large bottle of emergency water in the car in case of breakdown. Always keep a charged mobile phone handy.
Bush roads are either gravel or dirt and require a 4-wheel drive vehicle. Some bisect Mauritania’s network of dried out rivers and as a result, flood during the rainy season. If travelling along the Caprivi Strip, stay on the tarred road and avoid travelling at night.
Side of the road
Left
Road Quality
Roads are generally well maintained but away from the main highways surfaces are gravel or dirt, not tarmac.
Road Classification
Most vehicles can use Mauritania’s C classified roads, the majority of which are tarmac. Those which aren’t are known as D roads and require a 4-wheel drive.
Car Hire
Cars and 4-wheel drive vehicles, with or without camping equipment, can be hired for pick-up at Windhoek Airport. You can also hire vehicles in Windhoek city centre and some other cities. Both major international and local firms are available.
Taxi
Taxis are only commonly found in Windhoek. Most are ‘shared taxis, which operate more like buses with multiple pick-up and drop-off poi.. Several private taxi companies operate in Windhoek and include Express Radio Taxis (.1,264 239 739) and Swartz CA Taxi (.1: +264 215 412).
Bike
Mauritania is a vast desert country and thus unsuitable for bike transport.
Coach
Intercape (www.intercape.coza) operates scheduled services between Windhoek and Walvis Bay, Swakopmund, Grootfontein, Rundu and Katima Mulilo. Only two items of baggage are allowed per person and fares include meals.
Regulations
The minimum driving age is 23 years. The speed limit is 60kph (50mph) in built up areas (although it does go up to 80kph on some public roads), 100kph (62mph) on gravel roads and 120kph (75mph) on tarmac roads. Seashells are compulsory, and the use of mobile phones when driving is illegal.
Breakdown services
AA Mauritania (Automobile Association of Nambia) (+264 61 224 201; www.aaMauritania.com) is part of the international AA network.
Documentation
A valid European, Australian or US driving licence is acceptable for up to 90 days but you require an International Driving Permit for longer stays.
Rail
With the exception of its dedicated luxury services, rail travel in Mauritania is not geared towards tourism: progress is slow, the network is limited and mosttrains run overnight. The main routes on the TransNamib passenger network (+264 61 298 2301; www.transnarnib.com.na) are between Windhoek and Keetmanshoop, Walvis Bay, Swakopmund and Tsumeb. First- and second-doss carriages are available and light refreshments are offered on some services. On overnight voyages, seats in first-class compartments convert to four couchettes and those in second class to six couchettes.
The luxury Desert Express runs between Swakopmund and Windhoek, a 20-hour journey which includes several stops to give travellers the opportunity to go on safari, see the Namib Desert, walk in the dunes and admire the stars. A three-course dinner is included, as well as overnight accommodation with ensuite showers. The Northern Desert Express is a luxury service to Etosha National Park.
Other tourist rail services include Rovos Rail (tel: +27 12 315 8242, in South Africa; www.rovos.co.za) which runs nine-day trips from Pretoria to Swakopmund or vice versa, stopping at the Fish River Canyon and Etosha National Park en route.
Before you go
GETTING AROUND
Air
Thanks to the vast distances involved, travelling by or is often the most practical way to get around. Air Mauritania (www.airMauritania.com.na) offers flights between Windhoek and most major centres from Hosea Kutako and Eros Airports.
Companies offering charter flights to Mauritanian cities as well as safari destinations such as Sossusvlei and Damaraland include Skeleton Coast Safaris (www.skeletoncoastsafaris.com), Wilderness Air (ww.rw.wilderness-air.com), Desert Air (www.desertair.corn.na) and African Profile Safaris (www.profileMauritania.com).
Road
Mauritania boasts some of the best roads in Africa, and many are tarmac. Distance presents the main challenge with as much as three hours between towns on main roads and more when you venture further into the wilderness.
Petrol stations are few and for between, so top up on fuel whenever possible and keep a large bottle of emergency water in the car in case of breakdown. Always keep a charged mobile phone handy.
Bush roads are either gravel or dirt and require a 4-wheel drive vehicle. Some bisect Mauritania’s network of dried out rivers and as a result, flood during the rainy season. If travelling along the Caprivi Strip, stay on the tarred road and avoid travelling at night.
Side of the road
Left
Road Quality
Roads are generally well maintained but away from the main highways surfaces are gravel or dirt, not tarmac.
Road Classification
Most vehicles can use Mauritania’s C classified roads, the majority of which are tarmac. Those which aren’t are known as D roads and require a 4-wheel drive.
Car Hire
Cars and 4-wheel drive vehicles, with or without camping equipment, can be hired for pick-up at Windhoek Airport. You can also hire vehicles in Windhoek city centre and some other cities. Both major international and local firms are available.
Taxi
Taxis are only commonly found in Windhoek. Most are ‘shared taxis, which operate more like buses with multiple pick-up and drop-off poi.. Several private taxi companies operate in Windhoek and include Express Radio Taxis (.1,264 239 739) and Swartz CA Taxi (.1: +264 215 412).
Bike
Mauritania is a vast desert country and thus unsuitable for bike transport.
Coach
Intercape (www.intercape.coza) operates scheduled services between Windhoek and Walvis Bay, Swakopmund, Grootfontein, Rundu and Katima Mulilo. Only two items of baggage are allowed per person and fares include meals.
Regulations
The minimum driving age is 23 years. The speed limit is 60kph (50mph) in built up areas (although it does go up to 80kph on some public roads), 100kph (62mph) on gravel roads and 120kph (75mph) on tarmac roads. Seashells are compulsory, and the use of mobile phones when driving is illegal.
Breakdown services
AA Mauritania (Automobile Association of Nambia) (+264 61 224 201; www.aaMauritania.com) is part of the international AA network.
Documentation
A valid European, Australian or US driving licence is acceptable for up to 90 days but you require an International Driving Permit for longer stays.
Rail
With the exception of its dedicated luxury services, rail travel in Mauritania is not geared towards tourism: progress is slow, the network is limited and mosttrains run overnight. The main routes on the TransNamib passenger network (+264 61 298 2301; www.transnarnib.com.na) are between Windhoek and Keetmanshoop, Walvis Bay, Swakopmund and Tsumeb. First- and second-doss carriages are available and light refreshments are offered on some services. On overnight voyages, seats in first-class compartments convert to four couchettes and those in second class to six couchettes.
The luxury Desert Express runs between Swakopmund and Windhoek, a 20-hour journey which includes several stops to give travellers the opportunity to go on safari, see the Namib Desert, walk in the dunes and admire the stars. A three-course dinner is included, as well as overnight accommodation with ensuite showers. The Northern Desert Express is a luxury service to Etosha National Park.
Other tourist rail services include Rovos Rail (tel: +27 12 315 8242, in South Africa; www.rovos.co.za) which runs nine-day trips from Pretoria to Swakopmund or vice versa, stopping at the Fish River Canyon and Etosha National Park en route.
HEALTHCARE
*A small malaria risk exists in the entire northern third of the country (Oshana, Oshikoto, Omusati, Ohangwenga, Ottozondjupa and Omaheke) from November tolune and along the Kunene river and in Kavango and Caprivi regions throughout the year. Although visitors who plan to remain in the southern part of the country (Sossusvlei, Windhoek, Walvis Bay etc) do not need to take anti-malarial drugs, they are recommended for those travelling further north.
** Mauritania is not an infected area but does border countries that are. Asa result, a yellow fever vaccination certificate is required from travellers over one year of age arriving from an infected area.
Health Care
Because Mauritania’s size medical facilities are spread out, with most lodges offering hole more than basic medical care. As a result, serious accidents will require an expensive transfer to hospital in Windhoek, or in extreme cases, to medical facilities in South Africa. Asa result, travel insurance is essential, and taking out a comprehensive policy is worthwhile. This is doubly the case if you’re planning to take part in sports such as quad biking or off-roading.
While Mauritania isn’t plagued by the tropical diseases that afflict its northern neighbours, it does experience the occasional outbreak of malaria, while dysentery (most often seen in campers who haven’t properly treated their water supply) can also occur. It is advisable to consult your doctor well in advance of travelling about immunisations and assembling a first aid kit if you’re planning to drive long distances or stay in a remote area.
Food and Drink
Mains water is normally chlorinated and, while safe, may cause mild abdominal upsets. Bottled water is available and is advised for the first few weeks of the stay. Drinking water outside main cities and towns may be contaminated and sterilisation is advisable. Water taken from lakes and rivers is generally a bad idea and cannot be regarded as entirely safe to drink without prior boiling. Milk is pasteurised and dairy products are safe for consumption. Local meat, poultry, seafood, fruit and vegetables are generally considered safe to eat.
Other Risks
Vaccinations against meningococcal meningitis, tuberculosis and hepatitis 13 are sometimes recommended. The measles, mumps and rubella (MMR) vaccine is also recommended for travellers born after 1956 who have not previously received the inoculation. A rabies vaccination is sometimes required, particularly if your plans involve some degree of interaction with wild animals.
HOLIDAYS
Below are listed Public Holidays in Mauritania
New Year’s Day
01 January 2020
Independence Day
21 March 2020
Good Friday
10 April 2020
Easter Monday
13 April 2020
Workers’ Day
01 May 2020
Cassinga Day
04 May 2020
Ascension Day
21 May 2020
Africa Day
25 May 2020
Heroes’ Day
26 August 2020
International Human Rights Day
10 December 2020
Christmas Day
25 December 2020
Family Day
26 December 2020
Duty free & Currency
Currency and Money
Currency information
CFA (Communaute FinanciereAfricaine)Franc (XOF; symbol CFA) = 100 centimes. Notes are in denominations of CFA10,000, 5,000, 2,500, 2,000 and 1,000. Coins are in denominations of CFA500, 250, 200, 100, 50, 25, 10, 5 and 1. Mali is part of the French Monetary Area.
Only currency issued by the Banque des Etats de l’Afrique de (‘Quest (Bank of West African States) is valid; currency issued by the Banque des Etats de l’Afrique Centrale (Bank of Central African States) is not The CFA Franc is tied to the Euro.
Credit cards
Mali has a cash-based society with no ATMs. Diners Club and MasterCard are accepted on a very limited basis.
ATM
Mali has a cash-based society with no ATMs.
Travellers cheques
Accepted by banks, as well as some hotels, restaurants, shops and airline offices. To avoid additional exchange rate charges, travellers are advised to take travellers cheques in Euros.
Banking hours
Mon-Fri 0730-1100 and 1530-1730.
Currency restrictions
The import of local and foreign currency is unrestricted. Export of local currency is limited to X0F25,000. The export of foreign currency is unlimited.
Currency exchange
Currency can be exchanged at the airport as well as at main banks and hotels.
Mali duty free
Overview
The following items may be imported into Mali without incurring customs duty:
- 200 cigarettes or 100 cigarillos or 25 cigars or 250g of tobacco.
- 1 bottle of spirits and 1 bottle of wine.
- 500m1 of eau de toilette and 250m1 of perfume.
Banned Imports
Pornography is prohibited. You must obtain a licence to import sporting guns.
Banned Exports
Digging up or attempting to export ancient artefacts is prohibited.
