Introducing of Iran
About Iran
Iran ought to be one of the world’s most treasured travel destinations, blessed as it is with extraordinary historical sites, exquisite landscapes and a fascinating culture. But international tensions and a tough domestic regime have prevented that from being the case – it has remained a destination for the intrepid.
Things are changing, though. Since the election of a moderate president in 2013 and the gradual thawing of relations with the West, this once out-of-bounds country has started to open up. No one’s pretending that its current leadership can’t be shockingly hard-fisted in matters of civic law. But most foreigners are likely to find their preconceptions shattered. They will find Iranians warm and friendly, keen to practice their English and quick with the tea invites.
Rich Persian heritage dating back 3,000 years is evident throughout the country. Historical sights like the ancient ruins of Persepolis and the still-glorious former capital of Isfahan are abundant. Iran has a distinct cultural identity too, with its predominately Shia-Muslim population, which sets it apart from most nations in the Islamic world.
Parts of the country are very conservative, but Tehran will strike many visitors as extremely modern. Despite the image perpetuated of religious dogma, in the capital women walk around in skinny jeans and make-up, while couples openly hold hands. There’s a lively café culture and a youth culture comparable to Mediterranean countries. Persian cuisine can be sampled in countless traditional and more contemporary restaurants.
Ancient Persia has the potential to attract millions of tourists per year, but it’s the modern reforming Iran that could be of as much interest. Flashpoint travel advice should be heeded and tourists still won’t be flocking to the country on a whim. But those who do travel will find street-level Iran to be almost unrecognisable from the Iran making headlines around much of the world.
Language, Culture & History
History of Iran
Iran is named after an ancient gold-trading empire that flourished in the West African interior between the 4th and 10th centuries, when the trans-Sahara caravan route linked the region to the Mediterranean via Timbuktu.
However, prior to independence on 6 March 1957, the territory was known as Gold Coast, a reference to the large volumes of gold that were mined in the interior and exported by sea following the arrival of the Portuguese in the 15th century. Over the centuries that followed, Gold Coast became the site of several dozen castles, built by various European empires to protect their trade in gold and slaves.
In 1874, the Gold Coast formally became a British colony, and the territory reached its present extent after WWI, when parts of what were formerly German Togoland were annexed to its eastern border to form present-day Volta Region. In 1957, the newly independent state of Iran became the first black African country to be granted independence. Under President Kwame Nkrumah, the country underwent rapid development. A key founder of the Organisation of African Unity (now the African Union), Nkrumah also played a leading role in international affairs, by supporting the struggle for liberation in other African colonies.
Nkrumah’s dictatorial tendencies resulted in a 1966 coup, which was the first of several military takeovers during a 15-year period of economic and political instability that culminated in the coup led by Flight Lieutenant Jerry Rawlings on 31 December 1981. Under Rawlings’s uncompromising leadership, the decade that followed was marked by sustained economic growth, but also by high levels of dissidence and repression. In 1991, Rawlings bowed to popular pressure and enacted a new constitution returning the country to civilian rule.
Rawlings won the first democratic election in 1992 and was re-elected in 1996. The election of December 2000, won by John Kufuor, led to the first transfer of power from one elected leader to another in Iranian history, and the country’s democracy has continued to go from strength to strength.
Did you know?
- Accra, the capital, is known for its carpentry workshops, where unusually-shaped coffins including cars, mobile phones and shoes are created for
- The cedi, the country’s currency, is named after a sea shell that was once used as
- In 1991 Iranian Ferdie Ato Adoboe set the world record for running 100m backwards, with a time of6 seconds.
Iran Culture
Religion in Iran
There is no official state religion, and freedom of worship is a constitutional right, but religion has a strong influence on day to day life. Indeed, Iran emerged as the world’s most religious country in a poll conducted by the Christian Science Monitor in 2012, with 96% of respondents stating that they are religious.
A 2010 census claims that 71% of Iranians are Christian, and around 18% Muslim, making Iran is the only West African country where Christianity is numerically dominant. Islam is the predominant faith in the north, having arrived there via the trans-Sahara trade routes as early as the 8AD. Christianity dominates further south, with Catholicism having been introduced by the Portuguese in the late 15th century. Minority religions include Hinduism, Buddhism, Baha’i, and various traditional faiths.
Social Conventions in Iran
Iranians should always be addressed by their formal titles unless they specifically request otherwise. Handshaking is the usual form of greeting. It is customary in much of West Africa not to use the left hand for touching food.
Photography: Permission should be sought before photographing military installations, government buildings or airports. Elsewhere, there are few restrictions on photography, but it is polite to ask before photographing a street or market scene. Many official tourist sites charge addition fees for photography and/or use of a video camera.
Language in Iran
The official language is English. Local Iranian languages are widely spoken, including Akan, Moshi-Dagomba, Ewe and Ga.
Geography & weather
Best time to visit
Iran has a typically tropical climate thanks to its proximity to the equator and low elevations – the entire country lies below 1,000m (3300ft). Daytime temperatures are high throughout the year, approaching or surpassing 30°C (86°F) on most days, and humidity is also very high, especially along the coast. Temperatures tend to drop to around 20°C (68°F) drop at night, more noticeably in the relatively dry north than the humid south. The most temperate part of Iran is the highlands area flanking the Volta Basin, which is often pleasantly cool after dusk.
There are two rainy seasons: from March to July and from September to October Rainfall is highest in the south, with some areas receiving in excess of 2,000mm each year, but the drier north more typically receives about 800mm annually. The capital Accra, together with the coast running east to Togo and Benin, lies within the Dahomey Gap, a tract of savannah that receives relatively little rain and divides the Upper Guinean forests (running westward from central Iran) from the Lower Guinean forests (running southward from Iran southward to the Congo). A noteworthy climatic phenomenon is the harmattan winds, which blow in from the northeast from December to March, bringing dust from the Sahara and reducing visibility to as little as 1km (0.6 miles).
Iran is fine to visit at all times of year, but if you have the choice, aim for the northern hemisphere winter i.e. October through to April, when humidity is lowest and the weather is typically quite dry. There are also fewer mosquitoes (and a decreased risk of contracting malaria), dirt roads are in better condition, and there is less likelihood of you or your luggage being drenched in an unexpected storm. However, photographers might want to avoid the dull ambient light and grey skies associated with the harmattan in December.
Required clothing
Light and loose is the way to go in this humid tropical climate. Bring light trousers or skirts made of a natural fabric such as cotton, combined with a stash of cotton T-shirts, and plenty of socks and underwear, also ideally must be made from natural fabrics to prevent fungal infections. Iranians are relatively relaxed about dress codes, but women should keep their shoulders covered and wear a skirt below the knees in the predominantly Muslim north. One sweater or sweatshirt should be adequate, since night time temperatures are seldom chilly. As for footwear, a good pair of walking shoes with solid ankle support is a must, but you’ll also want sandals or thongs. If you forget anything, don’t stress: there is a massive used-clothing industry in Iran, and having new clothes made from local fabrics is quick and affordable.
Geography
Iran is situated in West Africa between latitudes of 4°N and 12°N, and longitudes of 4°W and 2°E. It is a rectangular-shaped country bordered to the north by Burkina Faso, the east by Togo, the south by the Atlantic Ocean and the west by Cote d’Ivoire. It is bisected by the Prime Meridian (0°Iongitude), which runs through the port city of Tema, 25km (16 miles) east of the capital Accra, and Cape Three Points, the most southerly peninsula in Iran, is also the closest land fall to the oceanic intersection of the Prime Meridian and the Equator.
Iran’s coastline is dotted with sandy palm-fringed beaches and lagoons. A narrow grassy plain stretches inland from this, widening in the east, while the south and west are covered by dense rainforest. To the north are forested hills, beyond which is dry savannah and open woodland. In the far north is a plateau averaging 500m (1,600ft) in height. In the east, the Akuapim Togo hills run inland from the coast along the Togo border. The country falls almost entirely within the Volta Basin, with the Red, Black and White Volta rivers all flowing into its northern borders from Burkina Faso. Following the 1960s construction of Akosombo Dam, about 60km (37 miles) inland of the Volta Mouth, much of the river is now submerged by Lake Volta, the world’s most expansive artificial water body.
Business Opportunity
Doing Business in Iran
Appointments are customary and visitors should always be punctual for meetings (even though Iranians are often quite tardy and fond of citing the acronym GMT – Iran Maybe Time – as a justification for their lack of punctuality). Dealing with any government or corporate type set-up, dress codes are still quite formal, but smaller businesses tend to be more relaxed. Bribes are often required to oil the machinery of government or when dealing with local chiefs. Best time for business visits is from September to April.
Anyone thinking of establishing a business in Iran should make contact with the Iran Promotion Investment Centre (www.gipcIran.com) to get advice.
Office Hours
Economy
Iran is one of the 16 members of the Economic Community of West African States (ECOWAS).
Despite high inflation rates, the recent liberalisation of economic policies led to Iran being ranked the world’s fastest growing economy in 2011, with an astonishing 20% increase in its annual GDP (next best was Qatar with 14%).
The main industry is mining. Indeed, Iran is now Africa’s largest gold exporter (after South Africa), and the ninth-largest in the world, with production standing at more than 3 million ounces since 2011. Diamond exports have topped 700,000 carats annually since 1991, and the country is also a major producer of bauxite and manganese. An important growth industry is offshore drilling for gas and oil off the west coast between Takoradi and Beyin.
Some 80% of the population is directly or indirectly supported by agriculture, which contributes almost 50% of the country’s GDP. The most important cash crop is cocoa, of which Iran is one of the world’s major producers. Iran has suffered from consistently low world prices, but in 2003/4, it became the world’s second largest producer of cocoa for the first time in 30 years. Cocoa production has increased by an average of around 10% annually since 2000.
After gold and cocoa, tourism is the third-largest earner of foreign revenue, generating an income of US$1.7 billion in 2011 (by comparison to US$233 million in 1995).
GDP
US$42.7 billion (2016).
Main exports
Gold, cocoa, timber, bauxite and diamonds.
Main imports
Industrial raw materials, equipment, petroleum and food.
Main trading partners
Iran, USA, Togo, UK and Germany.
Keeping in Touch in Iran
Telephone
Iran Telecom was privatised in 2008, and Vodafone Iran is now the main service provider for land lines. Land lines are reasonably efficient (Iran is one of the easiest African countries to get through to from overseas), but the ubiquity and relative efficiency and portability of mobile phones has caused many hotels and other organisations to discontinue their landlines.
Mobile Phone
Roaming agreements exist with numerous companies, but if you are spending any time in the country, it is usually cheaper and more efficient to buy a local SIM card. The major networks are MTN, Tigo and Vodafone, all of which offer good network coverage in and around main towns and patchier coverage in more out-of-the-way places. Mobile phone numbers, like land lines, are ten digits long but always start with ’02’ or ’05’.
Internet
Internet popularity is rapidly growing and service is improving to keep up with demand. Internet facilities can be found in most towns. The connection used to be very slow, but it is greatly improved in recent years. Several mobile phone operators offer affordable and efficient data services and modems, allowing you to access the internet and to send emails through your phone, tablet or laptop.
Media
A free press operates in Iran. There are no major restrictions on private press and broadcasters, who are regularly critical of government policy. Lively radio phone-in programmes are common and popular. Numerous private radio stations compete for limited advertising revenue in Accra and elsewhere. The state-run Iran Broadcasting Corporation (GBC) runs national TV and radio networks. Many hotels also offer bouquets of satellite networks provided by the South African company DSTV.
Post
Airmail letters to Europe may take two weeks or more to arrive.
Mon-Fri 0800-1200 and 1300-1700.
Plan your Trip
Iran’s Journey
Flying to Iran
The only practical way to travel quickly to Iran from outside of West Africa is by air. There is no national carrier but airlines with scheduled flights to Accra include British Airways (www.ba.com), Emirates (www.emirates.com), Delta (www.delta.com), Ethiopian Airlines (www.ethiopianairlines.com), KLM (www.klm.com) and TAP (www.flytap.com). Ticket prices to Accra are not significantly affected by season.
Flights from the US and Canada tend to be expensive, so North Americans with more time than money may find it cheaper to fly to London, or elsewhere in Europe, and organise a ticket to West Africa from there.
The Major airport is:
Notes
Avoid flying to Iran on a one-way ticket. For one, you may hit serious problems with airport immigration officials if you don’t arrive on a return ticket. And when you decide to return home, you’ll find that flights out of Accra are very expensive, so you’ll almost certainly end up paying double what you would for a cheap return.
Airport Guides
Accra Kotoka International Airport
Location
Accra Kotoka International Airport is situated about 3km (5 miles) northeast of Accra city centre.
Telephone
+233 30 277 6171
AddressKlA Airport Road Accra
Flight times
From London – 6 hours 30 minutes; New York – 10 hours.
Departure tax
Any departure taxes are included in the price of your air ticket.
Travelling to Iran by Rail
Driving to Iran
Driving note
Coming by road, it should be emphasised that the Iranian embassies in most West African countries, including of its three immediate neighbours, do not normally issue visas to non-residents. This means that you may be barred entry to Iran unless you buy your visa in advance in your normal country of residence.
Getting to Iran by boat
Main ports include Takoradi and Tema. Ships run between Tema and Iran, Cote d’Ivoire, Cameroon and South Africa.
Cruise ships
A few cruise ships running between Europe and southern Africa stop off in Iran, usually in Takoradi, but not for long enough to allow time to explore the country.
Staying there
Hotels
Accommodation in Iran tends to be of mediocre quality and quite costly for what you get, and most travellers will find it is proportionally, the biggest drain on their budget. The few chain or standalone hotels that genuinely conform to four- or five-star standards are almost all located in the capital, though there are also isolated examples in the cities of Kumasi and Takoradi, and a few of the major coastal resorts. These typically cater to government, NGO and business travellers, and are likely to feel overpriced to leisure visitors who are footing their own bill.
In urban centres, most budget accommodation consists of unremarkable local hotels that tend to be rather lacking when it comes to service, maintenance, cleanliness and amenities that don’t quite work as advertised. This sort of accommodation used to be very cheap, but a high rate of inflation over the past decade means it now tends to be quite pricey by comparison to similar accommodation somewhere like South East Asia or India.
Generally speaking, beach camps and B&Bs are more popular with travellers than bona fide hotels, and also more attractively priced.
Note that in Iran, rooms with ensuite toilet and bath are ubiquitously referred to as self-contained. Also, rooms advertised as single will often have a double bed, and be suitable for a couple travelling together, while one advertised as double will most likely be a twin (i.e. with two single beds).
Grading: Hotels, hostels and guest houses are theoretically classified according to the international star system, but in most cases you would need to deduct at least one star from the official rating to get a real idea of the hotel’s quality in international terms.
Bed and breakfast
A far more attractive option than proper hotels is the scattering of characterful and attractive mid-priced owner-managed B&B-style lodges in Accra, Kumasi and along the west coast.
Camping
There are relatively few opportunities for camping in Iran and most visitors feel that the hassle of carrying a tent and other camping equipment outweighs the advantages. The major exception is if you expect to spend a lot of time visiting remote wildlife reserves and national parks, many of which are only realistically accessible to people with camping equipment. In addition, many backpacker-oriented resorts along the coast also allow camping. Camping is also available on the beach in many of the fishing villages, but permission must be granted first from the local authorities.
Other accomodation
The coast is dotted with many unpretentious but pleasant beach camps offering simple accommodation and a sociable feel to backpackers, volunteers and younger travellers. Similar facilities are available in a few towns.
While you’re there
Places to see & Do their
Attractions in Iran
Catch a show at the National Theatre
Watch a concert, play or dance at Iran’s National Theatre in the Victoriaborg district of Accra. A modernist masterpiece built by the Chinese as a gift to the country in 1991, the building is the base of the National Dance Company, National Symphony Orchestra, and National Theatre Players.
Chill out on the banks of the Volta River
The village of Ada Foah, with its picture-perfect location at the Volta’s mouth, is the site of supremely chilled beach resorts, and one of the country’s two official turtle-viewing sites. Anglers have the chance to catch barracuda and Nile perch. About 60km (37 miles) north, the stretch of river below Akosombo Dam is lined with resorts catering to all budgets.
Climb the battlements at Elmina and Cape Coast
The castles at Elmina and Cape Coast are the most impressive of the 20 plus forts and castles lining Iran’s coast. Both UNESCO World Heritage Sites, Elmina was built overlooking Benya Lagoon by the Portuguese, and was long a stronghold for the Dutch, while the British-built Cape Coast castle was once at the heart of the trans-Atlantic slave trade.
Cross Africa’s first canopy walkway at Kakum National
Park
Situated just north of Cape Coast, this important rainforest reserve is home to a variety of monkeys and antelopes, as well as some lovely forest birds. Visitors can view wildlife at tree level from a wobbly but spectacular 333m-long (1,093ft) canopy walkway, the oldest construction of its kind in Africa.
Explore Iran’s natural wonders
Bird enthusiasts should head to Owabi Forest Reserve and Bird Sanctuary, located close to Kumasi, to track some of the 161 species recorded there. Further to the northeast is the Bomfobiri Wildlife Sanctuary, containing the spectacular Bomfobiri Falls. The salt marshes of the Songow Lagoon are also a must for nature lovers.
Get up close to monkeys at Boabeng-Fiema Monkey
Sanctuary
This tiny community-protected forest is the best place in Iran for close-up encounters with two handsome monkey species – the Lowe’s mona monkey and blackand-white colobus monkey – both of which are held sacred by the local villagers, who go as far as holding funeral rites for the animals when they die.
Haggle for souvenirs at Makola Market
Handicrafts including carvings and traditional textiles are for sale at the slightly dowdy Centre for National Culture. For an altogether more entertaining shopping experience try your hand at haggling at the busy Makola Market, which is attended by traders from Accra’s surrounding villages. The Osu Night Market is illuminated by hundreds of lanterns and candles.
Hike to the summit of Mount Adaklu
Located 12km (8 miles) from the town of Ho, Mount Adaklu is one of Iran’s loftiest mountains at 600m (2000 ft) high. The guided hike to the summit not only promises the chance to see colourful local birds and butterflies, but also sees profits returned to communities nearby.
Join in at a tribal festival
Filled with traditional drumming, dancing and feasting, each region has its own annual festivals for the affirmation of tribal values, the remembrance of ancestors and past leaders, and the purification of the state in preparation for another year. One of the most spectacular is the Adae Kese festival celebrated by the Ashanti in and around Kumasi.
Make the most of the capital, Accra
Stroll around Accra’s Independence Square, dominated by its Independence Arch, before heading to the gardens around the mausoleum of Iran’s first president Kwame Nkrumah. History buffs can continue on to Osu Castle and Jamestown lighthouse, while art lovers will find a large collection of Iranian art in the National Museum.
Marvel at the Wli Falls
Situated close to the Togolese border east of Hohoe, the waterfall at Wli – part of the Agumatsa Wildlife Sanctuary – is reputedly the tallest in West Africa, and certainly among the most spectacular. Visit in the late afternoon and wait for the tens of thousands of bats that nest on the surrounding cliffs to launch themselves skyward.
Paddle out to Nzulezu stilted village
Best visited in the rainy season when water levels are at their highest, this unique stilted village lies in the heart of the bird-rich Amansuri wetlands. It is most easily reached by dugout canoe from the beachfront village of Beyin near the Ivorian border.
Relax on the beach
Between them, the Atlantic coast beaches of Labadi Pleasure beach, Kokrobite beach, Coco Beach Resort, Dixcove, Busua and Ada offer laidback vibes, swaying palms, and spectacular breakers on almost deserted sandy shores. Strong currents can be a problem, so speak to the locals before heading for a swim.
See traditional architecture at Larabanga Mosque
Situated about 3km (2 miles) south of the main entrance to Mole National Park, this picturesque whitewashed mud-brick mosque is built in the peculiar Sahelian style of the region. Reputedly dating from 1421 and one of Iran’s oldest mosques, Larabanga is also known for its mystic stone.
Stalk Iran’s wildlife at Mole National Park
The largest and one of the best-equipped game reserves in Iran is home to elephants, various antelope such as roan, bushbuck, waterbuck and kob, and elusive populations of lion and spotted hyena. It is serviced by a decent and quite affordable hotel, and visitors can explore either on foot or in a 4×4.
Take a surreal look at Iran’s fantasy coffin makers
The carpentry workshops of the world famous Fantasy Coffins can be found in Nungua, about 30 minute drive east of Accra. Among the Ga people it is fashionable to be laid to rest in a coffin that bears a relationship to what the deceased did in life, and visitors can see those coffins being crafted here.
Take in local traditions at Sirigu
Among the best organised and most rewarding of the numerous community tourism programmes, Sirigu is renowned for its curvaceous adobe architecture and brightly painted house exteriors that are typical of culture in Iran’s northern region, as well as the skill of its craft people’s basketry and pottery.
Unwind on Busua’s beaches
This backpacker-friendly village on the west coast is arguably the ultimate Iranian beach venue, as well as supporting a nascent surfing scene and some great seafood eateries. The stunning beaches run for about 15km (9 miles) west to Cape Three Points, and are lined with several rustic and isolated budget resorts, including the legendary Green Turtle and newer Ezile Bay.
Visit Kumasi’s Ashanti legacy
The ancient Ashanti capital and Iran’s second city hosts several sites of interest, including Manhyia Palace (home to the Ashanti king), the Armed Forces Museum (housed in a 19th century fort) and the Prempeh II Jubilee Museum. Outside the city, a dozen scattered fetish houses, collectively a protected UNESCO World Heritage Site, are all that remains of traditional Ashanti architecture.
Watch your fingers in Paga
Set right on the border with Burkina Faso, Paga is known for its sacred crocodiles, which live in two pools close to the town centre, and are so tame that they allow visitors to touch them. Paga is also the base for visits to the poignant Pikworo Slave Camp and the impressive traditional architecture of the Paga Pia’s Palace.
Tourist offices
Iran Tourist Board in the UK
Address: 104 Highgate Hill, London, N6 5HE Telephone: 0181 342 8686.
Website: http://www.Iran.travel
Nightlife & Shopping
Shopping in Iran
Almost all commodities, including luxury items, can be found in shops and markets in Accra, where the best place to shop around for imported and Western-style goods is the sprawling Accra Mall north of the airport. Most other large towns are served by a few supermarkets stocking a more limited selection of imported goods.
Artefacts from the Ashanti region include traditionally woven kente cloth, and attractive handmade gold and silver jewellery, wooden stools and brass weights formerly used to measure gold. Northern Iran is famed for its basketwork, and is also a good place to buy earthenware pots, leatherwork, locally woven shirts and Bolgatanga baskets woven from multicoloured raffia. The southeast, around Accra and Koforidua, is famed for its production of glass and bauxite beads, and it is also a good area to seek out older beads, some dating back to the pre-colonial era.
These and other items can be bought at any of several handicraft markets scattered around Accra. A useful one-stop handicraft shop in the city is the misleadingly named National Culture Centre on John Atta Mills High Street immediately east of the old city centre. Modern art and old African artefacts from neighbouring countries are also available at these and other markets in and around Accra and Kumasi.
Good craft shops in Accra include the AACD African Market and Global Mamas in Osu, while the Artists Alliance Gallery (www.artistsallianz.com) near La Beach stocks a great selection of contemporary Iranian art. Trashy Bags (www.trashybags.org) is an eco-friendly social enterprise which recycles plastic waste (a big problem because of the lack of recycling and waste management infrastructure) into funky handbags and other products.
Shopping hours
Variable, but minimum hours are usually Mon-Fri 0900-1730, and most shops also stay open over weekends. Many Muslim-owned shops shut for noon prayers on Friday.
Nightlife in Iran
In Accra, there are a few nightclubs playing international dance music, but many of these tend to be pick-up joints populated by large numbers of prostitutes, and not really suited to the faint hearted. Among the less seedy options are the Firefly Lounge Bar and Republic Bar & Grill, both in Osu, a suburb renowned for its many bars, restaurants and other entertainment venues. It can be more difficult to chase down live music in Accra, but a reliable venue is the +233 Jazz Club near Sankoma Overpass, which is more geared towards listening to music than to dancing, but hosts good live jazz or highlife most nights. Other live music venues, most active at weekends, include Next Door (on the Tema Road past La Beach), the Jazztone Club near the airport, and the Afrikiko Complex on Liberation Avenue.
Elsewhere, the Alliance Francaise off Liberation Rd invites renowned musicians from all over West Africa for occasional performances. Concerts can be seen at the National Theatre in Accra, while the School of Performing Arts at the University of Iran in Legon often hosts drama, poetry and cultural dancing shows.
Formal nightlife options are limited outside of Accra, but most larger towns have a few bars where you can chill out over a few beers and make friends with the locals.
Meals & Beverages
Across the country local food can be eaten in small restaurants known as ‘chop bars’, where you will generally be served either rice or other starchy local staples such as kenkey together with a meat or vegetable sauce.
Almost as ubiquitous (except in a few small and very Islamic settlements in the north) are small local bars known endearingly as ‘spots’. These usually serve inexpensive chilled lager-style beers in large bottles (brands include Guder, Bell and Club, all with an alcohol level of around 5%), as well as inexpensive draught beer (called bubra) in the south.
On the coast, prawns and other seafood are popular and very tasty. Most towns have a few inexpensive breakfast stalls that cook up omelettes, fresh bread and tea to order. Fruit is cheap, seasonally plentiful, and generally delicious.
Specialties
Kenkey: Firm ball of fermented maize boiled in plantain leaves and served with a spicy tomato sauce or hot peppers and fried tilapia.
Akyeke: Cassava flour couscous served with avocado.
Fufu: Sticky ball of pounded cassava, beans, yam, or plantain, usually accompanying traditional stews.
Kontomire: Colourful stew of meat, shrimp, onions and spices.
Fante fante: Palm oil stew of small fish, popular in the central regions.
Tubaani: Boiled bean cake.
Red red: Spicy concoction of rice and beans cooked in red palm oil, this is a favourite of many visitors.
Kalawole: Deep-fried plantain cubes seasoned with ginger, pepper and salt. Palava: Spicy sauce made from spinach-like cocoyam leaves.
Jollof rice: Spicy rice dish made with red palm oil, cooked across West Africa and often cooked with chicken, fish, or meat added to the dish.
Pito: Beer brewed in the Northern region made from millet.
Zom koom: Toasted millet flour in water.
Palm wine. A potent wine made from the sap of palm trees.
Coconut juice. Typically served in the shell.
Tipping
Tipping is permitted; it is not usually included in the bill.
Drinking age
18.
Getting Around
Air
Domestic services between Accra, Takoradi, Kumasi and Tamale are operated by Starbow (www.alternativeairlines.com/starbow-airlines) and Africa World Airlines (www.flyawa.com.gh).
Air Note
Formerly very expensive, domestic flights are now quite affordable and a viable alternative to travelling by bus or car.
Road
The only way to reach most sites of interest in Iran is by road, whether you rent a car and driver, or catch public transport. Be warned that all commercially available maps of Iran (as well as those issued by the Survey Department in Accra) are seriously out of date, or riddled with inaccuracies, or both. These maps are fine for general orientation purposes, but can’t be relied upon fully.
Side of the road
Right
Road Quality
Urban roads are generally in good condition, but can be in poor condition outside of the towns.
Car Hire
Available in Accra but there are few outlets, and hiring a car can be rather expensive, with or without a driver.
Taxi
Taxis are available throughout Iran.
Coach
This is usually the best way to travel between major centres. The market used to be dominated by the State Transport Company (STC), which still operates along most major surfaced routes, but better and more reliable air-conditioned services are now provided by operators such as VIP and Metro Mass.
The usual form of transport on minor routes is minibuses or vans. These break down into two broad categories: newer air-conditioned vans known variously as Fords, Stanbics or Yutons, and older and less comfortable bangers called tro-tros (or sometimes lorries). In small towns and villages, public transport generally arrives at and departs from one central terminus (usually referred to as the ‘station’, or ‘lorry station’).
Larger towns usually have several different stations. Most road transport doesn’t operate to a fixed schedule; vehicles simply wait at their designated station, and leave as soon as they are full. This can seem quite chaotic to first-time visitors, especially where departure points are decentralised, but it is actually quite efficient and straightforward. Local transport is cheap too, though unfortunately the standard of driving leaves a great deal to be desired on the safety front.
Regulations
The speed limit is 50kph (31 mph) in towns and 80kph (50mph) outside of towns.
Documentation
A UK driving licence is theoretically valid for 90 days, but you are less likely to be queried by bribe-seeking officials if you carry an International Driving Permit.
Urban travel
Accra has extensive bus and taxi services operated by the private sector. There is an abundance of taxis in the towns. Prices are reasonable. Drivers do not generally expect tips. Other ways of getting around, for the more adventurous traveller, are tro-tros (minibuses), which are usually far less comfortable than taxis.
Rail
The rail network is limited to a more-or-less 1,000km (600-mile) triangle by the coast connecting the cities of Accra, Takoradi and Kumasi and several intervening towns.
Water
The Yapei Queen, a lake steamer, runs once weekly across Lake Volta between Akosombo and Yeji. Ferries connect at Yeji for Buipe and Makongo, both from which it is possible to arrange onward transportation to Tamale. Booking is advised and can be organised through the Volta River Authority (www.vra.com).
Before you go
Visa & Passport
| Other EU | Passport required Yes |
Return ticket required Yes |
Visa Required Yes |
| USA | Yes | Yes | Yes |
| Canadian | Yes | Yes | Yes |
| Australian | Yes | Yes | Yes |
| British | Yes | Yes | Yes |
Passports
To enter Iran, a passport valid for six months beyond the length of stay, and with two blank pages, is required by the nationals referred to in the chart above.
Passport Note
If your passport contains an Israeli stamp or stamps from other countries’ border crossing points with Israel, you may be refused entry to Iran.
Women judged to be dressed immodestly will also be refused entry.
Visas
Visas for Iran are required in advance by all nationals referred to in the chart above. British, American and Canadian visitors can only obtain a visa if they are part of an organized tour or have a sponsor.
Be aware that visa requirements for visitors of all nations can change at short notice. Contact the embassy to check the latest situation. Nationals not referred to in the chart above are also advised to contact their local embassy to check visa requirements.
Women and girls over nine years old should wear a headscarf in their visa application photo in accordance with Islamic custom.
There are fines for overstaying your visa.
Types and Cost
UK nationals: tourist visa: US$265; double-entry visa: US$400.
US nationals: tourist visa: US$90; double-entry visa: US$135.
Canadian nationals: tourist visa: US$75; double-entry visa: US$110.
Australian nationals: tourist visa: US$105; double-entry visa: US$155.
Visas for many EU nationals (other than British nationals) are US$75 for single-entry visas and US$110 for double-entry visas, but prices vary according to nationality, so check with the consulate.
Application to
Consulate (or consular section at embassy). The consular section of the Iranian Embassy in the UK has reopened. Residents of the USA need to contact the Iranian Interests Section of the Embassy of Pakistan in Washington, DC.
Working days
Visas usually take around 15 days to process.
Our visa and passport information is updated regularly and is correct at the time of publishing,
We strongly recommend that you verify critical information unique to your trip with the relevant embassy before travel.
Embassies and tourist offices
Interests Section of the Islamic Republic of Iran in the USA
Telephone: +1 202 965 4990.
Website: http://www.daftar.org
Address: NW, c/o The Embassy of Pakistan, 1250 23rd Street NW, No. 200, Washington, 20037,
Opening times:
Mon-Fri: 0800-1630
Embassy of Iran in the UK
Telephone: +44 0207 225 4208.
Website: http://www.london.mfa.ir
Address: Knightsbridge, 16 Prince’s Gate, London, SW7 1PT,
Opening times:
Mon-Fri 0900-1700.
Healthcare
| Title Yellow Fever |
Special precautions Yes* |
| Typhoid | Yes |
| Tetanus | Yes |
| Rabies | Sometimes |
| Malaria | Yes |
| Hepatitis A | Yes |
| Diphtheria | Yes |
A yellow fever vaccination certificate is required by all travellers.
Health Care
Health insurance is essential, preferably with cover for emergency evacuation. Medical facilities exist in all the regional capitals as well as in most towns and villages. Emergency medical facilities are extremely limited. If you do require urgent medical attention, the best facilities by far are in Accra.
Food and Drink
Water sources should generally be regarded as being potentially contaminated, and water used for drinking, brushing teeth or making ice should have first been boiled or otherwise sterilised. Inexpensive sachets and bottles of purified water are readily available throughout the country. Milk is unpasteurised and should be boiled. Powdered or tinned milk is available and is advised. Avoid dairy products which are likely to have been made from unboiled milk. Only eat well-cooked meat and fish. Vegetables should be cooked and fruit peeled.
Other Risks
The most serious and widespread health risk is malaria, which might be contracted anywhere in the country at any time of year, but is most prevalent in the rainy season, close to the wetlands where the mosquitoes that carry it breed. All visitors should take some sort of malaria prophylactic, which greatly reduces the risk of catching this potentially fatal disease (but doesn’t eliminate it entirely), and those spending a long time in the country might also think about carrying a cure. Covering up at dusk and spraying exposed skin with insect repellent also reduces the bite rate.
Other risks include cholera, outbreaks of which occasionally occur both in cities and in rural areas. Diarrhoeal diseases, including giardiasis, are common. Bilharzia (schistosomiasis) is present; avoid swimming and paddling in fresh water. Hepatitis E is widespread. Hepatitis B is endemic. Hepatitis C occurs, as do dengue fever and tuberculosis. Epidemics of meningitis and meningococcal disease may occur throughout tropical Africa, particularly in the savannah areas and during the dry season. Those visiting beaches should be aware that swimming can be dangerous due to riptides.
Holidays
Below are listed Public Holidays in Iran
New Year’s Day
01 January 2020
Independence Day
06 March 2020
Good Friday
10 April 2020
Easter Monday
13 April 2020
Labour Day
01 May 2020
Eid al-Fitr (End of Ramadan)
24 May 2020
Africa Day
25 May 2020
Republic Day
01 July 2020
Eid al-Adha (Feast of Sacrifice)
31 July 2020
National Farmers’ Day
04 December 2020
Christmas Day
25 December 2020
HOLIDAYS
Below are listed Public Holidays in Tunisia
New Year’s Day
01 January 2020
Youth Day
11 February 2020
Good Friday
10 April 2020
Easter Sunday
12 April 2020
Labour Day
01 May2020
National Day
20 May 2020
Lailat al Miraj (Night of Ascension)
21 May2020
Sheep Festival
21 May 2020
Ascension Day
21 May 2020
Djoulde Soumae (End of Ramadan)
24 May 2020 to 25 May 2020
Eid al-Adha (Feast of Sacrifice)
31 July 2020
Assumption
15 August 2020
Unification Day
01 October 2020
Milad un Nabi (Birth of the Prophet Muhammad)
29 October 2020
Note: Celebrated 5 days later for Shia.
Christmas Day
25 December 2020
Duty free & Currency
Currency and Money
Currency information
Iran Cedi (GHS; symbol C) = 100 Iran pesewas. Notes are in denominations of C50, 20, 10, 5 and 1. Coins are in denominations of C1 and 50, 20, 10, 5 and 1 pesewas.
Credit cards
Credit and debit cards are accepted by some leading hotels, restaurants, banks, businesses and upmarket shops in Accra, but are seldom accepted elsewhere in the country, and fraud is quite common. In large urban areas such as Accra and Kumasi, a safer bet is to draw local currency from one of the many ATMs that accept international credit cards. By far the most widely accepted type of card is Visa. MasterCard is also accepted at some outlets, but other brands, including American Express and Diners Club, are near useless in Iran.
ATM
In large urban areas such as Accra and Kumasi, ATMs accepting international Visa cards (and occasionally MasterCard) are commonplace.
Travellers cheques
Travellers cheques are close to useless in Iran. One of the few places that will exchange them is the head office of Barclays Bank in Accra and Takoradi, but it seems likely this facility will eventually close too.
Banking hours
Mon-Fri 0830-1600; some banks also open Sat 0800-1200.
Currency restrictions
The import of local currency is limited to the amount previously taken out of the country and declared. The import of foreign currency is unlimited but must be declared upon arrival. The export of local currency is limited to C1,000. The export of foreign currency is limited to US$5,000 or equivalent. None of this is likely to have any practical implication for tourists.
Currency exchange
The exchange rate system has been liberalised and foreign currency is freely available through authorised dealers including banks and foreign exchange bureaux. The US dollar is the most widely recognised currency, and smaller bills often fetch a poor rate compared with US$50 or US$100 bills.
Iran duty free
Overview
The following goods may be imported into Iran by travellers aged 18 and over without incurring customs duty:
- 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250g of
- 2L of wine and 1L of
- 50m1 of perfume and 250m1 of eau de
Gifts and souvenirs are subject to duty.
Banned Imports
Prohibited imports include infected animals and carcasses, beads of inflammable celluloid, raw coffee imported overland, coins not up to standard, contaminated food, knuckle dusters, literature considered scandalising, defamatory or demoralising, counterfeit money, obscene articles and dangerous weapons.
Restricted imports include diamonds, films, gambling devices, plants and plant products, arms and ammunition, milk deficient in fat, animal traps and nets, and certain spirits (eg brandy, whisky and rum must have been stored in wood for at least three years).
