Language, Culture & History

History of Ethiopia

Thanks to the discovery of the hominid fossil Lucy, Ethiopia is much touted as the cradle of humanity. As part of the Land of Punt, the people here enjoyed trade with the ancient Egyptians some 5,000 years ago and then, around 3,500 years ago, Ethiopia’s first great civilisation arose.

Various kingdoms then spawned, the most famous being the Aksumite Kingdom (100AD to 940AD). Dynasties rose, flourished and fell throughout the region up until the 19th-century, uniting and then splitting the country into feuding states.

Ethiopia can lay claim to be the only country in Africa to have never been fully colonised, despite the best efforts of the Italians, who suffered a series of devastating defeats at the hands of the Ethiopians in the late 19th-century and made a successful (but short-lived) occupation between 1936 and 1941.

The first half of the 20th century was dominated by Haile Selassie, who became emperor in 1930. Widespread discontent with continuing imperial rule led to a military coup in 1974, bringing the Derg to power. In 1977 a further coup established Lieutenant Colonel Mengistu as ruler. Ethiopia slid into a state of terror as mass arrests and executions became commonplace. A multitude of armed opposition groups rose up across Ethiopia in response, ushering in the start of Ethiopia’s civil war.

It was the civil war, along with severe drought, economic mismanagement and mutual mistrust between the government and Western aid agencies that contributed to the widespread Ethiopian famine of 1983. The war ended in 1991 when the Ethiopian People’s Revolutionary Democratic Front (EPRDF) took control of the capital. Not long after, in 1993, Eritrea extricated itself from Ethiopia, and tension continues between the two governments.

EPRDF leader, Meles Zenawi, was elected head of a transitional administration and became Ethiopia’s first democratically elected prime minister after elections in 1995. Since then, more political parties have been created and the government is keen to reform and encourage economic growth.

Did you know?

• Rastafarians believe Ethiopia’s former emperor, Haile Selassie, is an incarnation of Christ.
• Ethiopia is the only country in the world to have a 13-month year. The first 12 months have exactly 30 days for each month and the 13th month has five or six days.
• Coffee is thought to have been discovered in the Kaffa region when a shepherd found his goats behaving oddly after eating the plant.

Ethiopia Culture

Religion in Ethiopia

Ethiopian Orthodox Church, 43%; Islam (mainly in the east and south), 35%; Traditional religions and Protestants are also significant.

Social Conventions in Ethiopia

Religion permeates nearly every facet of Ethiopian life and society. Fasting, as part of a religious ritual, is common. Ethiopian society is rather conservative with traditional values very much in place. Many Ethiopians also harbour a strong national identity, taking pride in their profound history as well as recent economic accomplishments.

Ethiopians are a sociable bunch. They take time to greet one another and close friends may kiss three times on the cheeks. Hand-holding between two same-sex friends is a sign of affection, not a sign of a gay relationship.

Eating & drinking: Only the right hand is used for eating or passing things. The left hand is used when going to the toilet and therefore considered dirty.

Monasteries & churches: When visiting a monastery or a church (particularly in Lalibela), women must wear a headscarf, and cover their arms and legs. Some monasteries and churches are only open to male visitors. Women travellers should always check before entering if they’re unsure.

Ethiopian time: Please see the ‘Doing business & staying in touch’ section for an explanation on this.

Photography: In smaller towns, locals will expect a small payment in return for being photographed. Video photography in famous tourist attractions normally carries a small charge. Photography may be prohibited near government buildings and military installations.

Language in Ethiopia

Amharic is the official language, although about 80 other native tongues are spoken including Oromifa and Tigrigna. English is also widely used.

Phrases

Hello/hi = Selam

How are you = Tenastalign

How much is it = Sintinew

Goodbye = Dahnahan (male), Dahnahhanyee (female) Yes = Awo

No = Adalam

OK = Ishi

Please = Ibeki (male), Ibekish (female)

Thank you = Amasagenalaha

Sorry = Yikirta

Coffee = Buna

Tea = Shai

Beer = Birra

Water = Wiha

Geography & weather

Weather and climate

Best time to visit

Ethiopia is an ecologically diverse country; you can therefore expect several climate zones ranging from tropical savanna in the west to warm desert climate in the east. Most of the country is highland with many of its tourist destinations like Lalibela and Gondar are at an elevation above 2,000m (6,561ft). These places enjoy a considerably cooler climate year-round.

Generally, the best time to visit Ethiopia is between November and February when clear, sunny days bring regular average temperatures of 25°C (77°F). This period is considered the dry season as rainfall is at its lowest. This is also a prime time for bird watching. If you’re heading to the countryside, the period between September to October is an excellent time to visit as the landscapes are lushly pretty after all the rain.

The best time to visit Addis Ababa, Aksum, Lalibela and Gondar

The best time to visit Addis Ababa, Aksum, Lalibela and Gondar is from November to April.

The rainy season (July and August) brings soaring temperatures and humid conditions to most places in Ethiopia, including Addis Ababa, Aksum, Lalibela and Gondar. July is the wettest month for Gondar and Aksum, while August is the wettest month for Addis Ababa and Lalibela.

March, April, May, June, September and October are considered the shoulder months. It’s typically cheaper to travel during these months, but you may get a short burst of rain every now and then.

Visitors may also want to coincide your travel with colourful festivals. September 11 is Ethiopian New Year while September 27 is Meskel, which marks the discovery of the True Cross by the Roman Empress Helena. The biggest celebration takes place in Addis Ababa’s Meskel Square.

Other big days include Gena or Ledet celebrated on January 7, this is considered the Ethiopian Christmas when families gather to enjoy doro wat (chicken stew) with injera. Timkat, the Ethiopian Orthodox equivalent to Epiphany, is celebrated on January 19. The best place to see this festival is Gondar where the Fasil’s Pool is filled with water for a re-enactment of the first baptism.

The best time to visit the Lower Omo Valley

The best time to visit the Lower Omo Valley is from January to April. The weather is dry but hot (particularly in areas around Turmi) and there are many traditional ceremonies taking place.

The best time to visit the Danakil Depression

Situated in northern Ethiopia near the border with Eritrea, the Danakil Depression sits at the juncture of three tectonic plates and is one of the hottest places on earth with temperatures regularly top 41°C (106°F). There really is no best time to visit this otherworldly place, although some tours may claim that temperatures are more tolerable from October to February.

Required clothing

Due to vast altitude differences between highland and lowland areas, if you plan to explore Ethiopia fully you should prepare for a wide range of temperature differences. Bringing clothes that can be easily layered is the obvious choice. You will also need lightweight clothing for the lowlands and medium-weight for the hill country. At least one warm sweater or pullover should be brought along to cope with dramatic temperature drops once the sun goes down.

Please note that many churches and monasteries (particular in Lalibela) require women to wear a headscarf and cover their arms and legs.

FOR ALL YOUR BUSINESS PRINTING NEEDS

Geography

Ethiopia is situated in northeast Africa, in the area known as ‘The Horn of Africa’. It is bordered by Eritrea, Sudan, South Sudan, Kenya, Somalia, the self-proclaimed separatist territory of Somaliland, and Djibouti. Encompassing an area of 1,104,300 sq km (426,372 sq miles), it is roughly twice the size of France and is completely landlocked.

The central area is a vast highland region of volcanic rock forming a watered, temperate zone surrounded by hot, arid, inhospitable desert. The Great Rift Valley (which starts in Palestine, runs down the Red Sea and diagonally southwest through Ethiopia, Kenya and Malawi) slices through the central mountain ranges. The escarpments on either side of the country are steepest in the north where the terrain is very rugged.

Within the country there is a huge diversity in altitude. The highest point is at Ras Dashen in the Simien Mountains, which at 4,550m (14,930 ft) is Africa’s 10th tallest mountain. The lowest point is inside the Danakil Depression which reaches 125m (410ft) below sea level. To the south, the landscape is generally flatter and much of the east and southeast is taken over by semi-arid scrubland. Although mass- deforestation has been a problem since the Middle Ages, the lowlands are still noted for their verdant evergreen forests. Ethiopia is home to four major river systems, the most important being the Blue Nile which begins at Lake Tana.

Business Opportunity

Doing Business in Ethiopia

English is widely used in business circles. Nonetheless, knowledge of a few words of Amharic will be appreciated by Ethiopian business associates. Interpreter services are available in Addis Ababa if necessary. Business etiquette is quite formal in Ethiopia with appointments required for business meetings and suits and ties normal attire for visits.

Business meetings usually start 10 to 15 minutes later than planned, and most often start with a handshake and an exchange of phone numbers or business cards. Ethiopians are sociable, so it is natural to have a round of greetings at the start of a meeting to include several polite queries into the health and wellbeing of each person and their family members. The small talk may also encompass weather or any current news.

Ethiopia is a forward-looking country. However, in the event that the business associate is a Muslim woman who wears a hijab, foreign male visitors should not attempt to shake hands with her unless she extends her hand first.

Ethiopian time explained

One key thing to note is Ethiopian time. According to international time zones, Ethiopia falls under Eastern Africa Time (EAT) which is 3 hours ahead of Coordinated Universal Time (UTC). However, almost all Ethiopians use a 12-hour clock that follows the sunrise/sunset cycle. It must be explained that geographically, Ethiopia sits just 18 degrees north of the equator, it therefore enjoys fairly consistent 12 hours of daylight and 12 hours of night-time throughout the year, making it easy for Ethiopians to divide the day this way.

For example, at 0700 Eastern Africa Time is when the sun rises, marking the first hour on the dawn-to-dusk cycle and therefore locals call this “one-o’clock”. At 0800 Eastern Africa Time is the second-hour (two o’clock), so on and so forth. In the evening at 1900 Eastern Africa Time, Ethiopians start the other 12-hour cycle from dusk to dawn, so 1900 is the other one-o’clock to the locals. Keep this in mind and confirm with your business associates if the meeting is set for Eastern Africa Time or the local Ethiopian time.

Coincidentally, Ethiopian also has its own calendar which sees the first 12 months having 30 days each, plus a 13 month with either 5 or 6 days. However, business meetings usually follow the widely-used Gregorian calendar.

Office Hours

Government offices operate from Mon-Thu 0830-1230 and 1330-1730. And Fri 0830­1130 and 1330-1730.

Banks open from Mon-Sat 0800-1730.

Shops generally open from Mon-Sat 0800-1300 and 1400-1730.

Economy

Driven by healthy investments in infrastructure and manufacturing, and sustained development in the agricultural and service sectors, Ethiopia has been growing at a rate between 8% to 11% annually from 2005.

Despite the strong growth, challenges remain. Less than 15% of its land is arable but with 70% of the population employed in the agricultural sector, which is also subject to shifting weather patterns, soil erosion and over-grazing, there are limited options when it comes to managing drought and famine.

To overcome this, Ethiopia has been attracting investment from Chinese investors with flagship projects including the Light Rail System in the capital and the Addis Ababa to Djibouti Railway funded entirely by several Chinese firms. The construction of the multi­billion Grand Renaissance Dam project in the western region of Benishangul-Gumuz is currently underway. When finished, the dam promises substantial future revenues for the state by selling electricity to neighbouring countries while also providing Ethiopia with cheap electricity.

Meanwhile, the state-owned Ethiopian Airlines has expanded its network and grown to become Africa’s largest carrier in terms of revenue and profit. This, together with the growth in the hospitality sector, means services have now surpassed agriculture as the principal source of GDP.

GDP

US$79.74 billion (2017).

Main exports

Coffee, oilseeds, vegetables, gold and cut flowers.

Main imports

Machinery, aircraft, metal products, electronics, petroleum products, vehicles, chemical and fertilizers.

Main trading partners

China, USA, India, Kuwait.

Keeping in Touch in Ethiopia

Telephone

With mobile phones so widely used by locals and tourists alike, public payphones are no longer widely available in towns and cities.

Mobile Phone

Roaming agreements exist with many international mobile phone companies. Getting a local pay-as-you-go SIM card is highly recommended if you have an unlocked phone. A SIM card starts from 15 Birr and visitors only need a passport to register.

Internet

Wi-Fi is available in hotels, though the coverage can be patchy and the service can be restricted by the government during school exams. Using your mobile data is a good alternative.

Media

Although there are many privately-owned TV networks and radio broadcasters as well as independently-owned newspapers in Ethiopia, the government still has a stranglehold over media within the country. The control ranges from frequent censorship to outlawing stations that are deemed as “terrorist organisations” by the government. Ethiopians are deeply passionate about football. Consequently, satellite services like DStv which show football matches are hugely popular. EBS is another popular privately-owned network featuring talk shows, game shows, movies and dramas.

Major newspapers include the privately-owned The Reporter (published in Amharic and English) and the state-owned Ethiopian Herald (in English).

Post

Airmail services to and from Europe take five to eight days to arrive and are reliable.

Post Office hours

Mon-Fri 0830-1100 and 1330-1500; Sat 0830-1100

Nightlife & Shopping

Shopping in Ethiopia

Hunt down souvenirs and local handicrafts in the various bengdulas (craft markets), dotted around Banjul and the resort areas. Banjul’s Albert Market and the sprawling commercial heart of the busy town of Serrekunda are particularly colourful places to browse. Popular purchases include colourful batik wall hangings, handmade clothing, woodcarvings, bead jewellery and traditional djembe drums. Beaded belts and ladies’ handbags are also popular, as are books and albums made from recycled paper and West African handicrafts using straw, beads, leather, cloth or metal. Fajara, Kololi, Serrekunda and Brikama have a few shops and market stalls which supply African tribal curios such as masks and textiles.

Shopping Note

Haggling is part and parcel of shopping in the markets in The Gambia. Be prepared to barter for the best price. If you don’t want to pay the asking price, simply walk away. However, if you agree a price, it is impolite to change your mind.

Shopping hours

Hours may vary but generally, Mon-Thu 0900-1700, Fri 0900-1230, Sat 0900-1300. Some shops may stay open later in tourist areas.

Nightlife in Ethiopia

Gambian nightlife is fairly subdued and is concentrated in the coastal resorts and in Serrekunda, the largest city. The resort hotels put on regular performances of Gambian drumming, dancing and fire-eating for their guests; the best of these are highly energetic, and audience participation is encouraged. Hotels and restaurants also organise more tranquil musical evenings featuring traditional music played on the kora, a type of 21-stringed West African lute, and the balafon, a xylophone-style instrument.

Most of the country’s nightclubs and bars are found in the tourist hubs of Bakau and the Senegambia area of Kololi, with a few close to the Kotu and Cape Point hotels. Many feature live or recorded Mbalax music, the region’s contribution to world music. Jokor, Serrekunda’s long-running garden club, and Wow Night Club in Kololi, both draw large crowds of locals and tourists and are good places to catch West African bands and DJs. Major concerts featuring rap, reggae and African music stars from Senegal and beyond are held at Independence Stadium in Bakau. Further inland, the small town of Brikama has a low-key but significant music scene.

Meals & Beverages

The Gambia has a thriving delicious local cuisine with lots of fresh produce to try and is available at restaurants and hotels. Some hotels and restaurants organise Gambian-style barbecue-buffet nights featuring freshly grilled local fish and chicken, spicy stews and rice dishes. International food is also available at most tourist hotels and restaurants.

Specialities

• Benachin – also called Jollof Rice in other countries, a mixture of seasoned meat (fish, mutton, chicken or beef) and rice with tomatoes, tomato paste, onions and The vegetarian option replaces meat with vegetables.
• Domodah – the national dish of The Gambia, domodah is meat stewed in groundnut puree and served with rice.
• Chicken yassa – chicken cooked with onions, garlic and lime, served with rice.
• Plasas – meat and smoked fish cooked in palm oil with spinach, served with rice.
• Mafe – meat stew simmered in sauce thickened with ground peanuts.
• Haako – steamed couscous served with a vegetable sauce.

Things to know

With only a few exceptions, Gambian bars and restaurants are more frequented by tourists than locals. Many Gambians don’t drink alcohol, and most prefer to entertain at home, only eating out when away from home or on business.

Tipping

Tips are discretionary. A 10% service charge is sometimes included in hotel and restaurant bills.

Drinking age

18 but not strictly adhered to as so few people consume alcohol.

Regional drinks

• Jul Brew is the local speciality
• Attaya – strong and sweet home-brewed
• Baobab juice – a pale non-alcoholic drink made from the fruit of the giant baobab
• Palm wine – a misty white and sweet alcoholic drink made from the sap of certain palm
• Wonjo juice – a non-alcoholic drink made from dried hibiscus
• Freshly pressed and mixed fruit juice is sold from beach Make sure the vendor peels the fruit and prepares the juice in front of you.

Getting Around

Air

There are currently no domestic flights available within The Gambia.

Road

Driving is often difficult and slow. Roads in the city centre, around resort towns and those leading to the hotel areas from the airport are reasonably good. However, venture away from those areas and you’ll find more unpaved roads or heavily potholed roads. Vehicles often have to weave slowly and dramatically or drive adjacent to the road on a dirt track to avoid potholes.

Although locals will as a rule drive on the right side, they will often drive on the most accessible portion of the road. Be cautious when driving.

There is a limited number of streetlights in The Gambia. Make sure your car has working headlights and drive with caution during the night. It may also be worth bringing a small torch.

During the rainy season, roads will often become flooded. Take caution when driving in less built-up areas.

Road Quality

Major roads in The Gambia are paved, as well as roads in city centres and around resort towns and the airport. Throughout the country, most minor roads are unpaved, and potholes and free-roaming livestock are common. Streetlights and signage are sparse in The Gambia. Driving at night can be dangerous due to the lack of streetlights – ensure your car has fully-functional headlights.

Road Classification

There are two main roads: North Bank Road (north of the River Gambia) and South Bank Road (south of the river). Both are surfaced with tarmac and in a reasonably good condition. The main roads close to the coast are better but don’t allow you to get far off the beaten track before they deteriorate.

Car Hire

Greater Banjul has a few local and international providers including Avis (www.avis.co.uk). Alternatively, the resort areas are best equipped to supply hire vehicles. It is more common to hire a car and a driver for a daily rate, especially for longer journeys. You can also pick up a vehicle at Banjul International Airport. Driving can be difficult due to variable road conditions; some minor roads become impassable during the rainy season (June to October). Please note that hired cars cannot be driven out of the Gambia into Senegal. Most companies will require you to be 25 years old to rent a car. UK Nationals using a UK driving license may drive for up to three months.

Taxi

Bush taxis: Apart from private taxis, shared taxis (cars known as isept-place’, minibuses or vans known as ‘Gelli-gellis’) are the only form of public transport between towns and villages. They wait at their starting point until full then travel along fixed routes, stopping wherever passengers want to get on or off. They are not allowed to enter some areas of the tourist coastal region or Cape Point. Fares are fixed.

Private taxis: There are two types; neither have meters. Tourist taxis are painted green and are licensed by the Gambian Tourist Authority (GTA) to operate mainly from ranks in the resort areas; each rank has a noticeboard listing tariffs by destination. Local taxis are painted yellow with green stripes and can be hailed in the street; fares are lower and should be agreed in advance. Both types of taxi can travel anywhere in the country.

Bike

Available to hire at many hotels and resorts, these are a cheap and convenient way to explore the country as the landscape is flat and distances are short. If you get tired, load the bike onto a bus or bush taxi for a small luggage fee.

Coach

The Gambia Transport Service Company (www.gtsc.gm/) connects the major cities and towns throughout the day although departures are irregular and journey times often long.

Regulations

Drive on the right and overtake on the left, but beware that drivers often stick to whichever bit of road is in the best condition. There are almost no streetlights, so take care after dark.

Speed limits are 70kph (43mph) on major highways and 25kph (16mph) in residential areas.

Breakdown services

There is no automobile association or official organisation, but there are lots of improvised garages along major roads where minor repairs can be made.

Documentation

An International Driving Permit is accepted for up to three months. A temporary licence is available from the local authorities on presentation of a valid national licence.

Urban travel

Bush taxis (shared cars, minibuses or vans) and private taxis are the only form of public transport in Gambian towns.

Rail

There is no passenger railway in The Gambia.

Water

There are nearly a dozen points where travellers can cross the River Gambia by boat. Vehicle and passenger ferries between Banjul’s commercial port and the town facing it across the river mouth, Barra, runs in each direction every day (from 0700-2100). Tour operators run adventure and fishing trips using small motorboats or large converted pirogues and offer day cruises along the river with lunch or dinner and a live band.

Healthcare

* A yellow fever vaccination certificate is required from all travellers over nine months of age arriving from endemic or infected areas. Travellers arriving from non-endemic zones should note that vaccination is strongly recommended for travel outside the urban areas, even if an outbreak of the disease has not been reported and they would not normally require a vaccination certificate to enter the country.

Health Care

Visitors are advised to bring sunscreen, insect repellent and indigestion/diarrhoea medicines; all of these can prove expensive in The Gambia. The government plays a dominant role in health services, but private practices exist in the urban and resort areas. Health insurance is strongly advised. Prescription drugs should be carried in their original containers and with a copy of the prescription.

Note: Some over-the-counter and prescription medicines are banned under The Gambia’s drug laws. These include medicines like those containing diazepam or codeine.

Food and Drink

Mains water in the urban and resort areas is safe. Elsewhere, water for drinking, brushing teeth or making ice should be boiled or otherwise sterilised. Fresh milk should be boiled if unpasteurised; powdered or tinned milk is preferable. Avoid unpasteurised dairy products. Meat, fish and vegetables should be cooked, and fruit peeled. Avoid fruits and vegetables with bruised or broken skin.

Other Risks

Diarrhoeal diseases including giardiasis are common. Bilharzia (schistosomiasis) is present; avoid swimming and paddling in stagnant fresh water. Hepatitis E is widespread. Hepatitis B is endemic. Cholera is a risk, and up-to-date advice should be sought on the most suitable precautions. Rabies is present in dogs, bats and other mammals in The Gambia. Visitors who are planning on taking part in outdoor activities are at risk.

Holidays

Below are listed Public Holidays in Ethiopia

New Year’s Day

01 January 2020

Independence Day

18 February 2020

Good Friday

10 April 2020

Easter Monday

13 April 2020

Labour Day

01 May 2020

Koriteh (End of Ramadan)

24 May 2020

Revolution Day

22 July 2020

Tabaski (Feast of Sacrifice)

31 July 2020

Assumption

15 August 2020

Milad un Nabi (Birth of the Prophet Muhammad)

29 October 2020

Note: Celebrated S days later for Shi’a.

Christmas Day

25 December 2020

Duty free & Currency

Currency and Money

Currency information

Gambian Dalasi (GMD; symbol D) = 100 bututs. Notes are in denominations of D100, 50, 25, 20, 10 and 5. Coins are in denominations of D1, and 50, 25, 10, 5 and 1 bututs.

Note: Only 25 and SO bututs and D1 coins are in circulation. Also, in August 2019, the Central Bank of The Gambia released new dalasi notes which don’t include the portrait of former president Yahya Jammeh. The new notes are D200, 100, 50, 20, 10 and 5.

Credit cards

While some mid-range and top-end hotels will accept American Express, MasterCard and Visa if arranged at the beginning of the stay, most local businesses only accept payment by cash or traveller’s cheques. ATMs are available in large urban areas but are few in number and not always reliable. Due to credit card and bank fraud, caution is advised when using credit cards and ATMs.

ATM

ATMs are available in large urban areas and at some banks and some petrol stations in Banjul but are few in number and not always reliable. Due to credit card and bank fraud, caution is advised when using credit cards and ATMs.

Travellers cheques

AMEX travellers’ cheques can be changed at some bank branches in Banjul.

Banking hours

Times may vary depending on the bank and whether it’s in a city or not. Generally, opening hours are Mon-Fri 0800-1600, Sat 0800-1230. Banks may be closed during the middle of the day for lunch.

Currency restrictions

There are no restrictions on the import of local or foreign currency. Exported currency must not exceed the amount imported.

Currency exchange

There is a bank/bureau de change (Trust Bank) at the airport. The capital, Banjul, and the nearby towns of Serrekunda, Bakau, Fajara and Kololi have a number of banks where foreign currencies can be exchanged. Exchange bureaux can be found in all the main tourist resorts. Some hotels also offer foreign exchange facilities but tend to charge high commissions. As The Gambia is a cash economy travellers are advised to carry sufficient currency to cover expenses of a planned visit.

Gambia duty free

Overview

The following goods may be imported into The Gambia by travellers over 18 without incurring customs duty:

• 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250g of tobacco
• 1L of wine or beer
• 250c1 of perfume
• Goods up to a value of D1,000

Import Regulations

Fake money, pornographic material and narcotics.